Fozgometer


I've used this gizmo a few times before and think its a very valuable tool. I'm setting up a new cartridge, and nearing the end of a whole day job...anyway, I'm using the proper test record, yet, the meter doesn't work...I get a dull lights on the 2 red ones, although the middle power light works. Any suggestions?
128x128stringreen
Hans, the readings you're getting seem on the low side but perhaps you have a very low output cartridge. The channel separation indicated by the Fozgometer is not bad but I would try to adjust the azimuth so the channels are closer to being balanced (smaller difference).

If this is the first time you have used the Fozgometer I suggest experimenting with azimuth settings to see much stylus tilt affects channel separation. Try tilting the cartridge first one way and then another. Not too much but enough to see a difference in the readings. I check the amount of tilt with a small level. When you get the channel separation to be very close, stop and enjoy some music. :-)

Then, when you have some time, carefully listen to an LP with clean solo vocals and/or acoustic instruments to see if you can hear differences as you make fine adjustments. For example, listen to the LP before you make any adjustments using the Fozgometer and then listen to the same LP after you make adjustments. (Use an LP that you don't mind playing several times without resting it between plays.) Vocals and instruments should come into sharper focus when you're at or near optimum azimuth. As you become familiar with how the readings on the Fozgometer relate to the sound you hear, you'll know when you've got good azimuth alignment by the readings alone.

It's a learning process and takes time so don't be in a hurry and enjoy some music as you go.

Regards,
Tom
Nansk...make the difference as small as you can do it. Mine is exactly right....needed lots of time.. Every time you change the azimuth, you should check to see if the vtf was disturbed. Any raising or lowering of the back of the arm needs rechecking of all parameters including where the stylus sits on the alignment protractor. I know...very tedious....
Stringreen, you shouldn't have to adjust VTF or VTA/SRA or alignment when adjusting azimuth. All of those parameters should be been set and locked in before you adjust azimuth.

If you have a tonearm that uses a set screw to adjust azimuth then yes, you could be affecting tonearm length if the arm tube is somehow pushed or pulled in or out of the tube sleeve. But all you have to do is put a very small drop of "White Out" on the arm tube right at the edge of the sleeve. That provides a reference marking to make sure you aren't moving the arm tube in/out as you tilt it to adjust for azimuth.

Regards,
Tom
Tom...I'm using a VPI 3D arm, and can tell you that when moving either counterweight or CounterIntuitive around the arm tube..even slightly, I can't prevent it from moving front/back..even a miniscule amount which changes VTF. I must check and check again all the parameters. ...and when adjusting the vtf, I must again check the Foz for its indication. When I'm doing this, it seems endless, but I eventually zero it in. White out indications et al, are way too broad and inexact for me.
Stringreen, you're description of setting azimuth on a VPI uni-pivot doesn't motivate me to try one out. If VTF is directly coupled with azimuth adjustments and is that fidgety, I think I'll stay with gimbal-pivot tonearms. :-)

So to clarify that there shouldn't be a need to adjust VTA/SRA and VTF when setting azimuth: IF arm length and VTF are stable while adjusting azimuth, having to tilt the cartridge even 1 to 2 degrees will only change height by ~0.05mm to ~0.10mm from a reference vertical stylus setting. I've measured record thickness differences greater than that on a single LP, let alone the differences in thickness between LPs.

Enjoy the music!

Tom