How to Attach Spade 10 AWG Solid Copper

I use my version of a "butt" technique when joining two solid core capacitor leads. First I remove the outer plating and then flatten the surface with a Dremel carbide. Then I hold the two leads together in a locking hemostat, making a mechanical connection. Next step is to solder the joint permanently connected. I uses a similar technique in making a wire/prong connection when I build AC power cords. So, depending on the connection to be made, I use various techniques. I've already outlined above how I make a solid core wire to spade, speaker wire connection. I use additional "strain" relief besides the crimp. The crimp is most definitely making a conductive connection

Here is a link as to how I connect a 10g solid core wire to spade.

First clamp bare solid core wire to spade at lower point. Optional is to strip away metal plating on spade at solder contact area. Then solder with high heat at lower point only.

http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/nn76/reb1208/?action=view¤t=IMG_1427.jpg&newest=1

Then crimp connection at upper crimp location creating a direct metal to metal contact.

http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/nn76/reb1208/?action=view¤t=IMG_1428.jpg&newest=1

Then cover in heat shrink to add mechanical strain relief.

Using this method you have a chemical solder bond and a direct mechanical metal to metal crimp connection.

If you can show me a "better" connection, I'd like to see it.

I've been following this thread & want to say to solder then crimp is not considered prima facie.

Reb, your initial posts seems to convey crimp over the soldered area, which in essence does not allow direct metal to metal contact. Now I'm getting you are referring to two different contact areas-one for crimping & one for soldering? Your pics don't indicate this. At least I don't see what you're talking about.

There are a few ways to test the reliability of a soldered and/or mechanical joint. I don't think cable companies have their connections subject to shear debonding tests. Here the conventional wisdom is what has worked in the past still works.

Then again, the coolness of DIY is for one to experiment & try other methods; however; that does not mean you're right and everybody else is wrong.

It never ceases to amaze me how much information you read on the internet that is outright wrong

Driver,

E-mail me your address and I'll send you a finished sample so you can evaluate the connection.

reb

I uploaded 3 more pictures. Plated surface area of spade removed with carbide, wire clamped to spade with locking hemostat and then soldered, then crimped metal to metal contact and finished with heat shrink.

http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/nn76/reb1208/?action=view¤t=IMG_1430.jpg&newest=1

http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/nn76/reb1208/?action=view¤t=IMG_1431.jpg&newest=1

http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/nn76/reb1208/?action=view¤t=IMG_1432.jpg&newest=1

And know, I'm not saying I'm better than anyone else. Just showing how I make this connection.