Cheap tweaks...What would YOU reccomend?

Thanks, looks like I have the heavey duty toggle switches.

My amps are always on, in standby, the toggle switch just puts the amp into full power/play mode.

It replaces a circuit that was used on the stock amps to turn the amps on to full power when a signal was sensed by that circuit.
That signal sensing full power circuit was said to degrade the sound,so a heavey duty toggle switch was used as part of a mod.

I was just curious if there is a hierarchy concerning toggle switches.

Like is there a Nordost Odin of toggle switches?

Thanks for all the tips so far.

I've got a question. I have my three shelf rack sitting on Herbies Big Fat Dots. I'm not exceeding their weight limit of 200lbs for the 4 dots, but could these Herbies Dots have any negative effect? The feet on my rack are those slightly rounded round feet, not spikes. I'm in tweak mode with a new Hegel H200. My room is fine. One thing I know I should do is xlr to run balanced from my CDP. Hegel recommends this so I'd imagine I'll gain a little something by doing this.

I'm looking for a tad more bass slam like i had with the Rogue Cronus Magnum. Maybe this is impossible. My Harbeth C7es3's are on Skylan stands filled to the top with kitty litter. I'm using Audioquest NRG 4 power cords and Audioquest Rockefeller speaker cables.

The rig is on hardwood with a giant oriental rug in front of it. My room has honestly never been an issue.

I'm also considering Oyaide Rhodium banana plugs for my Rockefellers. Any suggestions?

Now that I sit hear thinking about my integrated amp upgrade, I'm wondering if I might need a sub. May e even just a REL T5 or 7. I only have one dedicated duplex. Can I run the Hegel H200, Audiolab 8200 CDQ and a Sub off a good power strip off the same circuit?

Donjr, I don't know about your system or room, but I added a sub a couple of years ago (a REL, FWIW) and it seemed to complete the whole deal. I've never regretted it.

If you build your own power cables, instead of just inserting the stripped wire into the connector - try crimping and soldering copper spade connectors on to the ends and then tighten down as hard as you can.

I didn't use anything special - just spades from my local parts supply - but they are copper and the correct gauge for the wire and the solder is good quality lead-free for electronics use

The improvements in dynamics and fine details was very noticeable.

The first cable I tried this on was a 10gauge furutech cable which was proving difficult to install a connector onto.

The other advantage - none of those little rogue strands of conductor that do not go into the hole that can cause serious problems :-)