Amperage?

as i understand it, the amp rating of the pc is not related to your household current but the amp into which it's to be plugged. certain amps (e.g., rowland, krell) use female mains sockets that require 20 amp cords.

Wino: The main breaker switch "in" our apartment is marked 15 amps while the single lines that it controls are marked 20 amps. Seems that it should be the other way around, but that's what I am dealing with. Our whole buiding had at one point been pretty much under code, so this does not surprise me. The box was replaced a few years ago and does not heat up at all nor have we have we thrown a breaker. I recently had an electrician in to repair the ground on one of the lines, but just discovered after the repair that the line still does not have a ground (when I checked it with the test light on a Monster HTS-2000 power conditioner after receiving a strong shock). The other lines however test OK for ground. I will check with the manufacturer of my amp to make certain that 15 amp cords are what I should be using (they are what I use now). Does it make any difference if the wall sockets are rated at 20 amps, when I am using 15 amp cords? I would just guess that they are just built to handle more juice but does this effect the sound at all? I had just noticed when shopping for PC's online that some (very few) are stated as being 20 amp models, which got me going on this. I then checked the wall outlets and see that they are marked 20 amps as well.

Dekay: The breaker is the "safety valve". It should have the lowest rating in the chain. The wiring from the breaker to the outlet should be rated to carry more amps than the breaker. Same with the outlet and your power cord to the amp. The reason for this is that if you have a breaker that is rated for....say....15 amps and your wiring from the breaker to the outlet is rated for....say....10 amps it is possible for you to plug an appliance into the outlet that draws....say....13 amps. In this case your are pulling more current than the wire is rated for and fire could result before the the breaker pops and shuts off the circuit. Like Winoguy I think something is amiss with your main breaker. Homes (an apatrments) built prior to somewhere in the early to mid 70's typically have 100 amp mains. Since then there has been a steady increase in the size of the mains and it is not uncommon for new homes to have 200 amp mains. Hope this helps. Good luck, Doug

Thanks everyone: It looks like the wrong type of box was installed and that I have more to concern myself than the sound of the stereo right now. I will give the landlord a chance to repair it granted that the work is inspected by the city as the last elecrical repair performed by the owner's electrician was not properly done either.

Dekay,sounds like you got a case for your city inspector to inspect.I know codes vary city to city. In LA an owner is required to pull a permit prior to undertaking/even installation of GFIs. / A service pannel?/you betcha.Once a permit has been pulled /inspection,upon completion of said work is required.I have the phone # you need;and a name to go with it/no menu maze. A standard wall ( 15 amps)receptacale is capable of 1875 watts.( this is why those hair dryers that draw 1500/1800 watts /combined with a light bulb, trip a breaker) The wire for a 20 amp circuit is the same, only the breaker is different. Records of any type of building permits, go back for many, many years.Even if your building is 50 years old they have the original blueprints, for sure.Electrical fires are a major concern;they'd be happy to come out to see what's what,and what was done without a permit.