Cleaning vinyl - am I using this thing right???

LOL... well, I'm glad I asked the question.

In my industry, there's an old saying... if it doesn't work, Read The [Fine] Manual - abbreviated RTFM. I've definitely RTFM'ed, and I interpreted the manual as "two revolutions is enough, don't overdo it." It's obvious from others' experience that two is often NOT enough.

I'll try the Deep Cleaner (sure I'll write a review!). The LPs I'm complaining of are used, often very lightly, but often very old; but sometimes they're not that good, although I generally buy only near-mint selections. I never dreamed that there might be another type of cleaner, since the VW works very well on *my* records. On the other hand, mine have been lovingly cared for over the course of 30 years, and there isn't any junk in them except maybe 30-y-o release compound.

Where does one buy a ZeroStat? I had one 20 years go, but it died or disappeared when the expensive gear left the house and the wife, kids and house payments came in. (Now that the kids are leaving, and I can afford the house payments, I am back in the audio hobby!) Anyway, I haven't seen one since about 1988, as far as I can remember.

I'll take the light thing under advisement. I still have to design the area of my dedicated concert hall/theatre for the equipment, so I have the opportunity to put in the right lighting.

Thanks for a LOT of useful information!

I think most of the mail order places carry the zerostat. Amusicdirect.com, audioadvisor.com and others...

...that technically does nothing to a record but still cost $60...

I use the Zerostat to what seems to be good effect. I live where dryness and static are a problem and removing an LP from the jacket will sometimes make the hairs on my arm jump to immediate attention. I find that using the Zerostat eliminates this effectively. The directions claim the introduction of positive ions when sqeezing the trigger and negative (cancelling) ions on the release of the trigger. Beyond me to interpret the technicalities, but it works for me. Squeeze and release have to be done S L O W L Y , though.

Sean, I called the device I use for protecting the labels a Groovemaster because this is what the guy I bought it from MANY years ago told me it was called. I always figured it was made my Stanton (it doesn't have a label) but have been unable to find any info that such a product is still available. It is basically two pieces of round wood with a knob on each end. One piece has a threaded stud while the other has an accepting nut countersunk into the wood. Each piece has an o-ring partially set into a round groove and are glued in place. One simply slides the stud through the spindle hole and tightens down the two pieces to effect a seal between the o-rings and the runout groove area. A friend of mine made his using mine as a pattern. In his case, he used two blocks of clear acrylic. Tapped one piece to hold the threaded stud and used a router and drill to drill a hole passing through the other and a countersink hole where he used epoxy to hold the accepting nut in place. Then he carefully used glee to affix his o-rings. He claims he has had to re-glue the o-rings a time or two but the device works well for him. Hope that helps.

I use the same regimen as "4yanx", and it always works very well for me. A VPI cleaning followed by Gruv-Glide treatment sounds the best. And I can definitely say I hear an improvement with the Gruv-Glide.

I have taken 2 of the same records and done direct A/B comparisons with and without Gruv-Glide. The record "with" the treatment has always had improvement.(fyi for 4yanx)

Hope this helps, Best Regards,
hififile
h