Tracking Force - Where to set it?

His first post indicated the most recent model, so that should be a V15 V xMR, I guess. So with the proper tracking force set with a guauge and with the proper compensation for the brush stabilizer, maybe the anti-skate should be varied slightly to see if that works better. BTW, what tracks better than this Shure?

If in fact it is the latest V15, you can lock that stupid brush in the up position and pretend it does'nt exist! Then go back and check your alignment, over hang, azimuth,anti scate, Etc. Finnaly re set your force. Start with a gram and if that won't track then move up slowly but I would not got above 1.5 with this thing. I think that too much force kills the life of the sound with this cart. and makes it sound closed in and dead.

Pbb, my comments were based on the earlier V15's. I do not know how well the newer series compare to the earlier ( V15 Type IV, Type III, etc... ) series. Sean
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The trick to setting tracking force is to not use any sort of gauge at all. Simply look at the stylus (use a magnifier if need be) as you set it down onto a record with the cue...

Note the deflection vertically. The position of the cantelever should be precisely in the middle of the opening from whence it exits the cartridge body. In the case where that is hard to see (often it is) you can watch the deflection as you start with a very light tracking force, and slowly move it up... the deflection has a center *linear* region due to the suspension in the cartridge. You can see this region by eye with out too much practice. Below the region, the styus "stands up" too much. Above the region, the stlus looks "low" and too close to the body.

The ideal is usually in the center of this region. Since no two cartridges are ever exactly the same, this makes it easy to set the tracking to the exact condition of the cartridge you are using every time.

It may take a few times through - and checks with your gauge, but after that you can do it quickly and by eye every time!

Note, that it is important to ZERO the arm accurately, if you want to use the built in gram calibrated feature of many arms...

And, yes, I think Sean is correct you have to change the weight to compensate for the brush thingie...with my method you can ignore that and just look at the cantilever.

Imho, in MM carts there are *many* that sound way better than the venerable old Shure design... Ortofon, AT, and a few others come to mind.

Bear: I agree about the old Shure's "lack" of sound quality. I personally liked some of the older Ortofon's, Stanton's and AT cartridges, but found that the AT's almost all exhibited a pretty hot top end. The cool thing about some of the AT's and Signet's was that you could buy one of their higher end cartridges and then experiment with the various stylus assemblies. I remember one specific cartridge that they made that had something like 17 or 18 different user replaceable stylus'. Some had different shaped diamonds, some had different cantilever materials, etc.... Each one had a sound of their own. As such, you could literally buy one cartridge and a handful of stylus' assemblies and have the sound of a different cartridge in a matter of seconds every day of the week.

Outside of all of this, it is pretty funny how doing some simple changes to cartridge loading within the phono stage can make such drastic changes. You can literally get the tonal balance, transient response, noise floor, etc... to do a 360* change by simply swapping a few resistors and capacitors. Sean
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