Remove spring from RB300

Twl tried emailing Basement i guess no response?

It has been a long time, and I apologize for the late responce, and also appreciate you thinking to e-mail me with your question. I have not been on the site for months and I have just recently re-activated my e-mail account-I'm surprised to see I still exist in cyberspace.
That's a whole different subject, and back to the audiophile expereince (something else I have neglected), I am here now and will be answering my emails and threads. Since it has been so long, I am not sure if you have removed your spring, but if you are still interested, I have my rb-300 off of my table presently and would be happy to get into it again if you like.

Why not sell the RB300 and purchase the RB250 which is a much better arm to mod.A simple weight mod that anyone can do and you have an arm that will better both the RB300 and the RB600.There are 2 bearings on the RB250 not just one with a resonating bias adjuster replacing a bearing on one side as on the RB300.The RB250 also has a brass stem as opposed to a steel one on the RB300.If you want to go the upgrade path the RB250 is easy to obtain and ultimately the much superior arm

Actually Stefanl that's exactly what I did. I would watch stating that the 250 has 2 bearings around here, I have been bashed on this before. I do concur that the 250 bettered my 300 I had. At present time I have a 250 modded with Express Machining VTA slider and 2-xtreme endstub. For the counterweight I used the Kerry Audio F2 titianium endstub. I like this combination, and look forward to upgrading the wiring next. Thanks Basement for responding, . I would be interested in knowing how you did it though, still. Especially since Rega has a new arm out(RB 700). Could you give an overview of how it was done, so future audiophiles would know.

Sure- the cover for the spring is a flat piece that is held by 2 allen screws and also securely bolted to the shaft running through the vertical bearing. (I was previously of the belief that it provided no support, but in fact it does). remove this and there is a coil spring that is attached to the adjusting dial by a small rivet, and attached into a slot of a bolt on the bearing shaft. The bearing shaft, where the bolt was holding the cover, is slotted, so you can turn it with a flat blade screwdriver. This is how to adjust the tension of the spring, if that is your intention. Now by loosening the bolt on the other side of the shaft, you can turn the shaft to loosen or tighten the spring. Note that the bearings are pre-loaded, so you are not adjusting the bearings (something you DON'T want to do, since they are carefully adjusted at the factory) but you do want to take care not to overtighten the bolts on each end as to not have an effect on they're adjustment. To remove the spring, drill out the rivet (it is wise to use the smallest drill bit nessesary to remove the rivet, so you could replace the rivet with a new one should you decide to replace the spring), and pull the spring out of the slot.
If you are adjusting the spring, it is good to do it with the cartridge attached, because however much tension you adjust the spring, you want to be sure that when the vtf is adjusted, the spring does not rub on itself, or this will resrtict the spring and cause the vtf to change depending on how the spring is catching.
I would be interested in how a rb-300 without the spring compares to a rb-250, especaily since I just learned that the rb-300 IS supported on the spring side, evan though it is by the plate and it is bolted.