This is from the Modwright website:
"...I proceeded to install them in my speakers first as Jack indicated that this was where the Bybee filters had their largest and most obvious impact on system performance. I installed them directly to the drivers, one at the woofer and one at the tweeter in my Graybeard KB/2/2's. I soldered them directly, in series, at the positive terminal of the driver, soldering the other end of the filter to the internal positive speaker wire. This was done at each woofer and tweeter in my speakers. They could also have been installed at the crossover or anywhere in series with the internal speaker wire in the speaker cabinets. Jack indicated that the best place to install them however was right at the driver."
The Bybees work at a "quantum mechanics" level. All I can say is that Jahaira (José) is a friend of Dan and he kept telling me about how good of an engineer and a person Dan was...he insisted I send him my Swans. I did and when I talked to him on the phone my intuition told me he was authentic *and* decent. I just trusted what he was doing. He didn't ask me for any money for over a month and a half. The only choice I had was in the caps--I had two or three brands to choose from and I chose the most neutral (Auricaps).
When the "noise floor is lowered", soundstage expands--that's one of the most obvious effects of noise filters. Bybees are noise filters. I don't have the speakers yet and when I do they will have all the mods, so I won't be able to hear the differences step by step as Dan did.
CDC, if you want to experiment, Carol makes some decent, inexpensive silver plated copper in 12, 16 & 18 ga sizes. That's what I'm currently using.