What Lacquers have been used on cables with succes

Trelja:I was thinking of putting Heatshrink at the ends before running lacquer over them so I would not hav to introduce any need for the use of a thinner.
The cable I tried the other night I just used a run of TexFlex Teflon tubing material and left the return run bare in order to hve seperation.Then I ran it through Plastic tubing and terminated the ends.

That worked good. I will be trying alll kinds of other things that peole have suggested. The most expensive part are the terminators I have bought.

I will be ordering more wire of different gauges soon also.

I was surprised at the sound I got for the IC's and speaker cable thus far.

Thx.

JohnK:I am doing this for several reasons. First is to see what might work best in my system and secondly to come up with cost effective solutions in order not to pay the extravagant prices commercial wires cost.

I have plenty of expensive wires I can use. I am finding that the different designs I am using aer beating some of my reference wires in several area's like soundstaging and Decay of instraments.

BTW I am using Tara Labs TFA on my bass Drivers at present which is the best I have for Bi-Wiring to those drivers.

Abe:

If you are just looking to seal the ends and the solder joints pick up a small bottle of Q-Dope @ an electronics shop. A 3" tall bottle should be under $3. It's a liquid "poly" plastic, I think (can't find my bottle to confirm type).

I use electrician's alcohol right now to clean wire and joints (previously used Kontak which was better, but I spilled the remainder of my bottle and have yet to replace it).

There is a also a "non-residue" spray contact cleaner by MG Chemicals of Canada that works well (approx. $4.50/can).

I use burnishing cloth (the purple stuff) myself as I don't like the mess that steel wool leaves behind. The main thing it to not touch the metal parts, with your fingers, after they have been cleaned and to also clean the solder joints prior to sealing them. If using magnet or insulated wire I run the Q-Dope up and over where the insulation meets the bare wire. JR or Jon Curl (one of those guys) recommended Q-Dope over @ AA.

Dekay:
I will look into the the Spray Contact cleaner. Another one is Craigs I think it's called.

I am trying to get as Close to an Sir Dielectric as possible.

One of the things I did not like about the Dayton RCAs are they have very little area to use solder in for the return lines. I ended up wedgeing plastic in the space to get contact instead of Solder/ The results were good,but I do not feel comfortable with the connection. I could use A plastic melting gun to make it better.

Other RCAs I will try are Home Grown which look really good for the $$ and I had bad luck with the Cardas SVLR RCAs.

I was thinking that using Silver Wire I would want to use Silver RCAs,but Eichmann Silvers are to pricey for my purposes and the Cardas's looked like a good alternative till I tried them. They did not have good sonic quality at all and I am still trying to figure out why. Could it be because I am using a Passive Controller?
The Daytons really surprised me for the price and they are my first choice until I can try the HG's.

I have Eichmann Coppers which Are my first choice ,but if I can bring down cost by using the Daytons without sonic degradation I will use them. If the HG's are better I will go with them seeing that they are only a few more $$'s and are Silver.

The reference to beat is the OTA Cable terminated with Eichmann Plugs. For Silver Cable IC's I am quite impressed with what I have come up with.

For Speaker Cable I am using 26AWG Pure Silver going to the Midrange\Tweeter XO. For the Bass I have a run of 18ga. Tara Labs TFA PH.II. This is being used for Bi-Wiring of NEAR M50MKII's using updated drivers which only I and the manf. have at the moment. So I am impressed by what I have come up with thus far and they a re very cost effective.

I have other cable coming that I hope is as good as the OTA. I am paying alot for it though after doing a through search for an ulternative.

I am experimenting to see what works best in my system at the moment. Having fun and alot of frustration doing it! It is worth it though.

Thanks for the info on the Q-Dope and Contact Cleaner!

C37... if you use a laquer this is the stuff to get.

Here is the website:
http://www.ennemoser.com

TNT Audio Review
http://www.tnt-audio.com/accessories/c37_e.html

More info:
http://www.ennemoser.com/eundf.html