this is a email from Rushton that is very usefull.. Thank you !!!!
The nice thing about a tangential tracking tonearm is that the cartridge
setup is very straight forward. The only alignment tool you need is a
scribed line from the spindle out to the edge of the platter. This is
provided by the plastic alignment card ("stylus reference gauge") I
mentioned in my first post - it came with the arm originally. If you don't
have one, you can make one from cardboard with some care.
Use this scribed line to set the cartridge overhang. The stylus should
track the line all along its length from spindle to outer edge of the
platter. Make the adjusment by extending or contracting the length of the
armtube.
Look at pages 7 and 24 of the manual (as numbered on the page itself) to
see a drawing of this and for a more detailed explanation for using the
gauge.
Once the the right arm tube length (for correct cartridge overhang) is
determined, mark the arm tube with a piece of tape and set the azimuth.
Azimuth is adjusted by rotating the armtube and by twisting the cartridge
body around its mounting screws (if needed). The technique for determining
correct azimuth is the same as with any privoted arm. As you know, the
point is to get the sylus perfectly perpendicular in the groove walls. The
point of mentioning this is to highlight that relying on the the outside
edges of the cartridge body (as done when using the jig Sean mentioned)
can be misleading. The only thing that matters is the alignment of the
stylus in the groove, and stylii and cantilevers can be assembled not in
alignment with the cartridge body.
Do pay attention to the discussion in the manual of "adjustable effective
mass." That will affect the sound of the cartridge/arm combination. The
correct solution varies by cartridge. I used Grado cartridges (TLZ, XTZ
and Reference), and I always found the best sound was with the lighter
counter weights moved as far away from the spindle as possible.
The nice thing about a tangential tracking tonearm is that the cartridge
setup is very straight forward. The only alignment tool you need is a
scribed line from the spindle out to the edge of the platter. This is
provided by the plastic alignment card ("stylus reference gauge") I
mentioned in my first post - it came with the arm originally. If you don't
have one, you can make one from cardboard with some care.
Use this scribed line to set the cartridge overhang. The stylus should
track the line all along its length from spindle to outer edge of the
platter. Make the adjusment by extending or contracting the length of the
armtube.
Look at pages 7 and 24 of the manual (as numbered on the page itself) to
see a drawing of this and for a more detailed explanation for using the
gauge.
Once the the right arm tube length (for correct cartridge overhang) is
determined, mark the arm tube with a piece of tape and set the azimuth.
Azimuth is adjusted by rotating the armtube and by twisting the cartridge
body around its mounting screws (if needed). The technique for determining
correct azimuth is the same as with any privoted arm. As you know, the
point is to get the sylus perfectly perpendicular in the groove walls. The
point of mentioning this is to highlight that relying on the the outside
edges of the cartridge body (as done when using the jig Sean mentioned)
can be misleading. The only thing that matters is the alignment of the
stylus in the groove, and stylii and cantilevers can be assembled not in
alignment with the cartridge body.
Do pay attention to the discussion in the manual of "adjustable effective
mass." That will affect the sound of the cartridge/arm combination. The
correct solution varies by cartridge. I used Grado cartridges (TLZ, XTZ
and Reference), and I always found the best sound was with the lighter
counter weights moved as far away from the spindle as possible.