crimping vs soldering


I have read in more than one place crimping connectors on speaker wire is better that solder. Any opinions on this from anyone?
michaelscott73
Done properly, crimping wins hands down.

That means the correct tool for the crimp and a ratchet type crimp tool (in good condition), so the tool will not open untill enough pressure has been applied.
This produces an air-tight cold weld, which is better than a hot weld unless the hot weld is done under an inert gas blanket, to keep the oxygen away while the metal is hot.

Sorry guys, but solders, even eutectics, do oxidise over time. Thus solder can carry oxidation into a crimp more than would otherwise happen.
When researching crimping for a production line situation, the experts advised against soldering over a crimp.

If you want to seal a crimp (not bad if you want really long term protection) many of the elecrtonic parts warehouses sell products for that purpose. Otherwise nail varnish is a fairly OK substitute, and putting adhesive lined heatshrink over the top helps a lot also.

Just be aware that a poorly done crimp is about as good as a cold-soldered joint.
Lower resistant on crimping, higher on soldering.
More solid & safe connection with soldering and crimping wires might fall and cause a short, short can also damage your system. Cheap solder also degrades sound quality. Use silver 4% solder. If you know you can crimp strong enough, use chrimp, DONT TOUCH THE BARE WIRES WITH YOUR OILY MOISTY HANDS WHILE YOU TRY TO CRIMP THEM, use a pair of gloves! Also dont expouse the bare wire.
Oh also, if you solder, do not over-do it with too much solder, completely melt the solder, try to eliminate fake-solder connection (soldered point which the solder looks like it's melted all the way, but not) it will fall off. and because they are not melted and the connection is bad, hum, buzz, bad sound will also appear..
A properly crimped connector is just fine for most things audio. You want to be extra safe solder the connector too. OP's comments are good and the only thing I would do different is I don't worry about silver content solder. I fail to see that a minor silver content improves anything and the higher heat input required to use that solder can damage things like capacitors if you are not careful. Moral to that story though is use a soldering device that gets plenty hot quickly and you can get on and off the joint fast with less heat input than one that is barely enough to solder with.