Home Spindle Lube Test

Bob: I think that Rockvirgo has demonstrated just the opposite of what you stated i.e. "all engine oils are overkill - even olive oil will do". There's obviously a very big difference in the ability to lubricate and reduce friction between the items compared.

If ALL of the motor oils were "overkill", they would all reduce drag to the same approximate point. Given that they all show markedly different settling times, the differences in drag / frictional loss is still quite measurable. This tells me that seeking out and using the best product is not overkill.

Until the playing field is leveled to the point of diminishing returns between multiple "identical" products, selecting the one that works best seems only logical to me. That is, if the price differential isn't beyond reason. That's why i kept referring to Tufoil in a similar thread. When you've got minimal friction, you've got the least amount of motor and bearing wear with the least possible need for speed correction.

By the way, multi-weight oil makes use of more "binders" or "fillers" as additives. These additives allow the oil to "stretch" and change viscosity as temperature varies. The more fillers that you have, the less oil that you have. If one is running a device that maintains a relatively consistent operating temperature with consistent ambient temperatures, it is best to pick the most suitable single grade lubricant for the job at hand. This is why most industrial grade machinery calls for straight 30 weight oil. It won't break down as quickly due to using fewer "binders" or "fillers". Sean
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Let me throw out another one to try. Automatic Transmission Fluid, some good stuff like Valvoline. I did this type of experiment in a MMF 7 I used to own and I liked this stuff a bit more than the Mobile One that Music Hall recommends.

Sean,
I agree to a point about your saying different oils should be verified, but one oil that was not checked was olive oil!

You might be surprised to find that it allows the platter to turn even longer than the motor oil.

BTW, longer turning time does not indicate that the lubrication is better, just that viscosity of the lubricant is lower therefore allowing more shearing of the lubricant itself which puts less drag on revolving spindle.
In fact too low a viscosity could be bad, since the lubricant barrier formed between the metal parts would break down and then we would have metal touching metal and increased wear. The platter, however, might turn for much longer, since the actual friction of metal to metal (sometimes ceramic) surfaces might be lower than with the lubricant between them.
Motor oils are for much harder lubricating conditions than a "babbit" bearing, which a turntable bearing is basically. That is why I said that motor oil is over kill. For lubricating a simple spindle, a light machine oil is all that is needed and while I might have been facetious in saying that olive oil would be just as good, I am sure that that is true! Try it, you might like it! (Pun intended).

Salut, Bob P.

PS. As a professional Chemical Engineer and having managed synthetic lubricant plants for several years, I am quite sure of my views on the subject of lubricants and their applications.

Bob,

What would you recommend? Something like Starrett oil, or a type of sewing machine oil? I ask because while I used the oil Chris sends out with the Teres bearing, I'm always open to suggestions. If a lighter oil will work better, I'm all for it.

Joe

I agree. About the only thing you could do to cause harm is to not use any lubrication. Heck, even water is a lubricant.
I judge a spindle lube based on how much extra noise I hear or don't hear from the platter.