Dedicated power lines-getting started

subaru-
Romex is indeed subject to fork-ups on installation. There are many many cases of a heavy handed gorilla taking one too many whacks with a hammer on those romex staples, crushing the wire, creating either a dead line-to-neutral/ground short, or much worse, an arcing ground fault. Result of the latter: a fire.

Regardless of the conductor chose, note that in the electrical trade, residential wiring is called "dingbat" work, and is where apprentices start out at. No slur intended; they are just following the plans (Code minimum)as approved by the developer (Cost & time minimum), and that's why we all end up with $0.79 receptacles w/ #14 wiring.

There are NEC provisions that are stupid for the informed, but are there to protect the idiots. No, I won't list the ones I know. And that's why any intelligent engineer or designer, or provider of electrical material, won't ever give casual advice unless he is covered by liability insurance.

Your response was well stated, BTW. Personally, I wouldn't be retailing electrical products that aren't listed and labeled for the use I was advertising them as, unless I included a liability release with each purchase order, since you don't personally supervise the installation of said products.

No matter how "ideal" the 83802 and 83803 might seem for house wiring, the bottom line is that it is most likely NOT approved for a majority of people's house wiring.

I would urge anybody that uses ANY non-standard house wiring to check with their local electrical inspector (not an electrician) before completing their project.

What happens if your house burns down and your insurance company finds you used wire that was not up to code for your area?

I'm NOT picking on the 83802 or 83803 specifically, as even my super duper new power cord wire is better than half the stuff in people's walls, however it should NOT be used for house wiring either...

Eagle has done his homework and is consistently getting the same answer on this issue, so you might want to do some checking with the people who regulate this stuff, subrugru, and see if you get answers to the contrary.

Best regards,

Chris VenHaus
VH Audio
www.venhaus1.com

Yeah, the issue seems to be the fragility of the Teflon outer jacket, whether its red or natural. I have a good friend who's a pro independent adjuster (worked both sides of the fence for 20+ years, and is a mech e from MIT, so we always yak about wires and the old "question", of course.)
Perhaps this stuff could be run through an easy to install conduit somehow to satisfy codes? I suspect that the soft vinyl jacket I use on my PCKits isn't sufficient, either.
Does anyone know the mechanical requirements for external jacketing of house-wiring?
Seems a shame to not use such a nice, quiet, detailed and affordable 12AWG'er.
Chris..."super duper"? Does changing it from red to white, and going "softer" (19x26 vs the semi-stranded 7x20) really do anything except establish propriety? We've done well to partially debunk the snake-oil around here re PCs....
Please send that sample I ordered. I'm pretty curious to run a few single-blinds to see if there's something audibly different. Thanks. GREAT new logo you've got, too!

>>>Does changing it from red to white, and going "softer" (19x26 vs the semi-stranded 7x20) really do anything except establish propriety?"

Sir, are you questioning my integrity, business practices or motivation? What are you inferring? Literally THOUSANDS of audiophiles worldwide haver made my DIY recipes for speaker cables, interconnects and power cords over the years, and I never ONCE asked people to pay for the designs. All I asked was for no one to "commercialize" my designs without my permission. That apparently went unnoticed by you. So now you are implying that I changed my cable design simply so I wouldn't have to compete with my own cable design? Ludicrous.

>>>We've done well to partially debunk the snake-oil >>>around here re PCs....

...in the limited time I've been here, the only debunking I've seen is the legal use of 83802 as house wiring...

>>>Please send that sample I ordered. I'm pretty curious >>>to run a few single-blinds to see if there's something >>>audibly different.

Would you like me to give you the name and telephone number of the engineers and manufacturer of the wire too? I'm sure your "single-blind" test will have absolutely no bias....

Cheers.

If you want to meet code requirements and have a really low-inductance path to your components, particularly your amps, then this is what I would recommend (several have followed this advice and are astonished by the improvement):

Buy three wires, white, black and green insulated 10 or 12 AWG THHN solid copper wire. It has thin insulation.

Twist the black and white wires together in a pair at 4-6 twists per foot.

Twist the green wire around the first pair in the opposite twist direction as the first pair. Twist rate is not too important, just to hold it together as a unit.

Then fish the assembly through plastic conduit in the walls using a "fish-tape" - an electrician worth his salt will have one.

Terminate the wires to a good outlet, such as the PS Audio or Acme silver ones.

This creates very low inductance compared to any ROMEX, no matter what gauge you use. Low inductance is what makes the difference, not low resistance, but it helps.