calling all audiophiles

ok, guys, seriously, i've not tried ANYTHING that doesn't limit or degrade dynamics other than dedicated outlets. it makes no difference what the device is called. FWIW, i'm toying now with the installation of a dedicated 220 v. outlet for my amp; i'll definitely do this if i go on the upgrade path to a boulder 1060 or 2060. in sum, i’m of the belief that it’ll sound better and cost less if you schedule your amp on your household policy and NOT plug it into anything other than a dedicated, high-quality outlet. -cfb

Kelly- I think your on to something!! 220v used with 110v gear would yield twice the output power of the amp, brilliant!! So if I do that my tube amp would produce 120watts for each channel, and the tubes would double as a night light!!!

BTW I know a great dry wall guy to plug all of those '.' holes you have in your walls ;)

tim: please give me the name of your plasterer; i'll pay his airfare. :o) BTW, the amps i'm talkin' about have user-switchable 110/220v inputs. see, e.g., : http://www.boulderamp.com/bldramp.2060.html

-kelly

CFB, do you need to put on sunblock before listening to music with that amp?

Correct me if I am wrong but people seem to confuse spikes, noise and thunder. Thunder or excessive spikes are easy to control as they are usually adressed by devices in parallel with the line so they short when a high voltage hits MOV and gas tubes are usualy used. I haven't heard any comments on isolation transformers these can decouple your gear from the line which is a huge benefit (any comments?) as far as the 220V/110 comment goes this is usually a diode acting as a Voltage divider not really a benefit in my opinion.