Graham tonearm tweaking


I have recently finished my Teres turntable project. I purchased a used Graham 2.0 for it, and installed my Clearaudio Discovery cartridge last weekend.

My question is, I have been reading the forums here regarding the damping levels on this arm. Could someone who has experience with this outline the method that they use to tweak the level to suit the cartridge? Please go into detail as to what you are listening for at each stage of the adjustments. Do you key in on the bass, or listen for treble?

I am looking forward to finetuning this arm and want to put in the effort needed to get it to its best sound.

Thanks guys, Brad.
bfuehrer
Hey Doug: Please don't tell me that your opinions/evaluations ( post/answers/threads ) on the audio
subjects were based on " close eyes " estrategy.

I hope not.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
Raul,just when I attempted to defend some of your previous posts as "INNOCENT ENTHUSIASM out of love for this hobby",you go and try to be antagonistic!!What do you expect to get from this type of response?Stay entertaining and informative(I know you've done that in the past),and you will be better off,and respected for contributions to subject matter!!I mean this in the most "POSITIVE" way.I think you are a well meaning hobbyist!!

Jeff,read my previous posts re fluid,etc.

The azimuth can(I did it this way)be done by putting a very small mirror on the platter.Drop the cartridge on this,with the table turned "OFF"!!!Look at the stylus tip,and reflection, from the FRONT.You want to see the angle of the stylus as COMPLETELY VERTICAL...Obviously,if you have a test record you can check for this,or better yet, Graham has a little CHACHKA that plugs in and serves the same purpose.

Any adjustments for azimuth can be made by turning the little side weights,one way or the other,for balance.It's easy and actually fun,especially when you get a handle on everything, and realize that you can adjust your stuff with "CONFIDENCE" that comes from trying for yourself,and learning first hand.

I used to be paranoid about touching my stuff.Later I realized,from trial and error,that I became a pretty good set-up man.Now I won't even have a dealer do my work.No one will be as fanatically careful as me(my own hang up here),and at least I learn about my own equipment that way!!

To save you some time reading every post.On the application of the fluid.The pointy "THINGY" is the bearing.That is attached to a "SQUARE" shaft.Only in the beginning do I "VERY CAREFULLY" put some fluid in the WELL itself.In order to work "PROPERLY" with fluid levels you must think about the "Checking" of fluid like the checking of oil,from your car.The "SQUARE" shaft is where you get your measurement from.You,ultimately,want to START with the fluid about,just under,1/2 the way up the SQUARE shaft.You have to replace(screw) and then take out the bearing shaft(easy to do)for a visual reading.

This can and will take multiple repetitions before you get it right!!It is the ONLY way to really dial in the arm.

At first,when you have shot a small amount of fluid (Small amount,then check "dip stick/shaft)into the actual bearing well, you will have to gauge as to how close you have come to getting it about 1/2 way up the shaft.Just unscrew and check,possibly a few times,until you are close to 1/2.If you go way over,carefully take a Q-tip and clean some out.Be really careful here,you don't want any residue in the well.Also hold bearing in place over the well for about a minute or two so as NOT to leak any fluid in any part of the arm assembly.Sounds hard,but easy!

After that ALL ADDITIONS OR SUBTRACTIONS OF FLUID are made by taking out the bearing shaft and checking for level,based on the sound you are hearing from music in play(here check previous posts).You squeeze, from the syringe,an itsy amt. of fluid,and pick it up with the tip of a pin or toothpick.This is really easy to do.Then carefully apply to the tip of the "UNSCREWED" and facing up bearing tip (THE POINTY TIP
After that screw back the BEARING assembly and listen,as described in previous posts.YOU WILL HAVE TO REPEAT THIS PROCESS QUITE A FEW TIMES before you get it right.

DON'T WORRY.Once you get the hang of it,it is really easy.Also,something I had forgotten to mention earlier.Try to have some audio-pals over when you perform these adjustments.It is advantageous to have extra "CRITICAL" ears on hand.

For any other potential questions,could you PLEASE read previous posts FIRST.I think about everything is covered there.
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Doug / Sirspeedy,
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The name of the cartridge I heard in January vs the UNIverse was a Lyra Tsurugi (or Surugi...I am not sure of the spelling).
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The UNIverse was significantly better than the Tsurugi as well.
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Rgds,
Larry
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Thanks sirspeedy, no further questions (except for one at the end of this post), just want to express my gratitude. You've written volumes here and I appreciate your desire to avoid having to repeat yourself. It’s probably obvious I’m a novice but I understand what you have just said and it’s quite helpful. Already knew how to check the level with the “dipstick”, just wasn’t sure what level to start with. Your explanation of how to work from that level is clear. I added a bit more and have it to a good starting point, just below half way up the square shaft. Previously it was just touching the square part (not enough fluid).

I also knew how to adjust azimuth, but was not sure how to see when it’s right. The mirror idea occurred to me, but using the test record this morning seemed to get it about right. I just tried the mirror and was able to see the stylus didn’t look quite vertical so made a fine tuning adjustment. Will test by ear again with the test record. The mirror works well.

Speaking of the test record, I found the inner most tracking ability test gave my setup problems. It was fine with the center and outer ones. Changing the azimuth slightly seemed to help some, but my arm/cartridge still had problems with the tracking ability test closest to the center of the record. The overhang adjustment template that attaches to the cartridge (what a convenient way to make this adjustment) has a choice of two points to line the stylus tip over. Position 1 for the standard “Seagrave/Baerwald” positions, while 2 is the “alternative Loefgren which is said to provide improved overall distortion at the expense of slightly increased peak distortion at the beginning and end of the record.” Since I used a point half way between 1 and 2 thinking I might get the best of both, this could have been the cause of the distortion I heard (very noticeable) on the inner test tracking ability test. I’ve since moved the stylus tip to position 1 and now the inner-tracking test is handled with no problems. This improvement might also be due to increased damping with the now higher fluid level

Finally one question, is the wobbly nature of the Graham typical of unipivot arms and hence there is probably nothing wrong with mine?
Larry,I'm "SOLD"!!Better pray that this is all confirmed when this "Breakthrough" design,as you infer,starts to get some serious exposure ,other than via the internet.PS-I assume it was you,whom Salvatore was referring to.

I have taken your word on this,as you seem experienced,and sincere, and recommended the lesser models to one friend.He will probably get a zyx 2 or 3.

My "YODA" pal is in BIG TIME with some of the "HOITY TOITY" crowd,who are sceptical about the UNIV. as being the second coming.With these guys,they usually like to knock something they haven't discovered themselves.Especially since this line is controlled by one guy,well intentioned or not.I will get "KILLED" by these guys,if your comments don't pan out in time,as I've done somethimg I've learned not to do.I've created "BUZZ" by someone's(YOURS IN THIS CASE)comments to me.So I may have to move down to FLA. a little earlier than planned if the UNIV. is not the "MEGA" design you and others claim it to be!!

That being said,I do have very good credibility with him,as I have helped him out,in the past,with his own system issues.I'll keep pitching the Univ. if only,at least,for him to take a good look at, before making any final decisions.Although with the limited exposure here,I can't see how this could be done.

The previous offers of other hobbyists allowing an audition are incredibly nice,but unless heard in our own set-ups can't tell much!!

Thanks!!