Power companies deliver voltages from 114 to 126 volts, which is the accepted tolerance. The higher voltages are delivered when transmission line lossed are expected so that the customer furthest away will get 120 volts or so. Also, the utility voltage is RMS - which means that at 120 volts you receive peak voltages of 170 volts. If your voltage meter is not a true RMS type, then the readings you get may not be reliable.
The best thing to do is contact the utility and express in no uncertain terms you have high voltage and are concerned. Let them make the call - as they are ultimately liable and responsible. I would also call an electrician who knows the area and see if what you have is common in the neighborhood.
An true overvoltage condition is above 132 volts rms for an extended period. This level will most likely do damage to sensitive electronics. But most electrical equipment with UL ratings are designed to operate within an accepted utilization voltage range of 104 to 127 volts. I wouldn't say 128v is not a dangerous situation - but one of concern that should be checked out by the utility or an electrician to make sure there's nothing other than utility-derived overvoltage.
The best thing to do is contact the utility and express in no uncertain terms you have high voltage and are concerned. Let them make the call - as they are ultimately liable and responsible. I would also call an electrician who knows the area and see if what you have is common in the neighborhood.
An true overvoltage condition is above 132 volts rms for an extended period. This level will most likely do damage to sensitive electronics. But most electrical equipment with UL ratings are designed to operate within an accepted utilization voltage range of 104 to 127 volts. I wouldn't say 128v is not a dangerous situation - but one of concern that should be checked out by the utility or an electrician to make sure there's nothing other than utility-derived overvoltage.