Has anyone heard the 47 labs Shigaraki DAC?

Slawney:

Use the type of strippers that have an adjustable set screw. I have a pair of Ripley/Miller that are set specifically for the OTA. They should run $8-$9. Never nicked the wire with them and have made dozens of cuts.

If properly set you can even strip Kimber multi stranded cable with your eyes closed (they are that good and easy to use).

On the OTA tweak, I drilled a 3/32"(to fit OTA dia.) hole in a piece of 1.5" thick pine and then simply tapped (lightly w/ hammer)a brand new very sharp razor blade across the center of the hole exit on one side.The OTA is then pushed through the hole from the bladeless side until it meets the cutting edge of the blade.This may require rotating the wire within the hole if the copper center itself hits the blade dead on.Carefully push the wire into the blade until there is enough (1/2") of the wire sticking out to grab with a pair of pliers and pull it the rest of the way through.I had very good results with this method,the only thing is you have to uncurl the wire after you've pulled it through because it curls up on it self after it is pulled away from the last half of insulation .With the blade perpendicular to the wood I didn't notice any scoring of the copper at all by the blade.
I immediately without touching the wire with my bare hands hung it up and sprayed it with a self etching primer(sherwin williams 988)and let it dry.I dont know anything about how paint will affect the sound,but I do know that the self etching primer will adhere (nasty stuff,probably overkill).I plan on letting it dry overnight and hooking it up tomorrow.I'm starting with IC's only at first.

On the OTA tweak, I drilled a 3/32"(to fit OTA dia.) hole in a piece of 1.5" thick pine and then simply tapped (lightly w/ hammer)a brand new very sharp razor blade across the center of the hole exit on one side.The OTA is then pushed through the hole from the bladeless side until it meets the cutting edge of the blade.This may require rotating the wire within the hole if the copper center itself hits the blade dead on.Carefully push the wire into the blade until there is enough (1/2") of the wire sticking out to grab with a pair of pliers and pull it the rest of the way through.I had very good results with this method,the only thing is you have to uncurl the wire after you've pulled it through because it curls up on itself(loosely) after it is pulled past the blade.With the blade perpendicular(important!) to the wood I didn't notice any scoring of the copper at all by the blade.The remaining half of the insulation is easily removed by grabbing the wire and the insulation and pulling them apart.
I immediately without touching the wire with my bare hands hung it up and sprayed it with a self etching primer(sherwin williams 988)and let it dry.I dont know anything about how paint will affect the sound,but I do know that the self etching primer will adhere (nasty stuff,probably overkill).I plan on letting it dry overnight and hooking it up tomorrow.I'm starting with IC's only at first.