Speaker Mods

Nrchy, on the website I looked at, they mentioned factory stands that put the tweeter at correct listening height. But, they didn't show a picture or price. If it were me doing the mods, I would replace whatever internal wiring you are comfortable doing, with the best sounding speaker cable you have heard for your system. I'd also get a set of Cardas speaker binding posts, which are good and not too expensive. Also, I would get a pair of Bybee Ultra Quantum Speaker Filters or Walker High-Definition Links, and put them at the end of your speaker cables, outside the cabinets, at the binding posts. This way, the Monster cables that you already have will be feeding the Bybees or Walker HDL's, and the sound will be "filtered" just prior to entering the speakers. The really good cables and Cardas posts will then be the only wire/connectors that comes into play after the signal has been improved by the Filters/Links. I added the Bybee Filters to my system and found excellent sonic improvement to my sound quality. I have heard that the Walker Links are also very good, maybe even better than the Bybees, but I haven't tried them myself. Albert uses them on his super-high-end system, so that is a good testament to their quality. The stands may or may not help things for you, since getting them up off the floor may bring the tweeter up to correct level, but it may drop off some of your bass response due to removing the floor boundary reinforcement for your woofers. It depends on how the frequency balance of your system is, at present. Generally, using on-axis tweeter position in relation to your listening position will yield better imaging, but could be problematic if the tweeter is a little harsh. If the bass is strong or even a little boomy, you could tame it by using the stands, and if the tweeter is too hot in that position, toe the speakers out a little to get the tweeters off-axis in the horizontal plane. Another thing I recently did, was to use some room treatments, such as Room Lenses, to control the sound after it leaves your speakers. Controlling first-surface reflections will improve your imaging and soundstage. There are alot of pieces to the puzzle, but these are a few that I have found worked for me.

What is the purpose of a speaker filter? I am not familiar with this product. The M 2.4 cables have something on both ends of the cable through which the cable runs. I don't know if this is some type of filter.
The speaker stands I have are slightly tipped up which I think is wrong for these speakers based on the height of the stands. I find myself sitting up very tall in the chair so as not to miss anything. I build furniture as a hobby and have considered building stands more suitable for these speakers but I'm worried about their acoustic signiture.
I've used Krell speaker cable with these also but I like the 2.4 better. Do you think I should try to obtain some on the 2.4 in bulk to rewire? I have also considered using some Cardas cable inside the speakers.
Where can I get these Bybee filter or at least get some info on them?
Thanks,

Nrchy, I will admit I was also questioning the usefulness of a speaker filter before I tried some. I thought it was even a silly idea. However, I found differently. In the case of the Bybees, I searched the web for info, and posted some threads here on the Cables Forum(Check archives for Bybee Filters) I got mixed reviews, but most of the people that liked them thought they were great, and the others said that they couldn't tell any difference. So, really no down side, and I decided to get a used pair for $300. It was like getting a component upgrade or new NOS tubes or something of that magnitude. As you know, I have a fairly revealing, detailed system, and if it was doing anything bad, I'd know right away. But, the best way to describe it was that everything got smoother. Edges and grain that I didn't even think were there, went away. Sibilances gone. Sharper focus. Lower noise. IMO they are worth it, and don't do any harm, just improvement. They were originally a military invention to clarify the detail in long-range underwater sonar systems. They work. Get used ones and save some money, they don't wear out. They show up on the A'gon classifieds periodically. About the stands, if you make a pair that lifts or angles the tweeter to ear height, you can get image improvements,and since you already use stands, you will not sacrifice any bass. If your bass can stand some boost, then you might consider using adjustable spikes to angle the speakers the way you want, and use the floor boundary to boost your bass response by about 3db. In either case, make sure that the speakers have a very solid and stable footing with no rocking at all. Any rocking will cause the speakers to move imperceptibly at higher volumes, causing doppler and cancellation effects primarily on the tweeter. Make sure the construction of the stands is rigid, and the stand does not protrude from the front or sides of the speaker boxes,creating an unwanted relecting surface for the sound. Keep it all under the speaker. Regarding the cables, if you like the Monster on your system, by all means stay with it, and use it inside the speakers as well. The Cardas cable you mention is also good. It is possible that making a felt ring to go around your tweeters may clean up the image even further, but your box is shaped to reduce baffle reflection already, so it may not need it. For about $1, you could buy some self stick felt, cut a properly sized ring about 1 inch wide and stick it on the box surrounding your tweeter. If it helps, great. If no difference take it off, and nothing lost.

Do you have any recommendations for sourceing the needed supplies for rewiring and getting binding posts?

Get your self a couple of sheets(24" x 27") of Black Hole 5.

Remove the drivers and and loose damping material and try
and cover the inside walls of the cabinet. It's easy,just cut, peal and stick(it has pressure sensstive adhesive).

Stay at least two inches from the rear of the drivers.