Home audio drivers vs. car audio drivers



Just kinda curious,

Drivers seem to be specifically made for either Home Audio or Car Audio.

What exactly is the criteria that seperates these>

I see alot of good speaker manufacturers making home audio AND car drivers. Focal, Infinity, ETC, ETC.

I hear alot of problems from DIY'ers about matching tweeters and midrange drivers, was curious if anybody ever messed around and tried building a set of 2 way speakers using infinitys $200 Reference Kappa Component sets.

Is there an actualy difference between car audio and home audio? Is there a different approach to design? Ive seen car audio drivers that run in the thousands of dollars, i know enough about car audio to know that they put ever bit as much of engineering in those products.

or is it basically the fact that most car audio speakers run at 4 ohms while home audio speakers run at 8ohms?
slappy
Sean, I can't figure it out. You say Dan Wiggins can't use a vented box that can outperform a sealed box but he shows how he can. Bobby is lowering bass below tuned freq. which you say increases distortion and he says he found a way around that.
Sounds like you don't think either one knows what they are doing / following the laws out physics.
To my ears Dunlavy's sounded much less dynamic than Virgo III's or B&W. And B&W publishes distortion under 1% with their vented boxes. Bass is very tight and picks up on the beat (toe tapping).
Cdc: "You say Dan Wiggins can't use a vented box that can outperform a sealed box but he shows how he can."

Beat it in what manner? Given optimally tuned designs, a vented box may have greater extension and output, but it will never have the same amount of definition and transient response that a sealed box can achieve. Like i said, quantity vs quality.

"Bobby is lowering bass below tuned freq. which you say increases distortion and he says he found a way around that."

That is what Bobby says. As i mentioned in that thread, NOWHERE in the Stereophile review is distortion measured or quoted.

"Sounds like you don't think either one knows what they are doing / following the laws out physics."

I think that Bobby has a much better idea of what he's doing than Dan. Dan is all about computer designing a product for maximum quantity, not maximum quality. If you doubt this, look at the Adire website and you'll see the "monster" sized woofer with mega-excursion that they are working on. Given that Dan doesn't understand the difference between an amp being able to load into a speaker and what damping factor means, it is pretty obvious that he's letting the computer do his thinking and work for him.

On the other hand, Bobby is about hands-on experience and tweaking for optimized results with minimal trade-offs. He understands what the words "control", "loading" and "damping" mean.

Dan will get you a lot of sound. Bobby will get you good sound.

"To my ears Dunlavy's sounded much less dynamic than Virgo III's or B&W. And B&W publishes distortion under 1% with their vented boxes. Bass is very tight and picks up on the beat (toe tapping)."

Dunlavy's had their own problems, just like any other mass-produced speaker. On top of that, most people aren't used to listening to "tight" bass with minimal ringing. Facts is facts, personal preferences are something all-together different.

Try taking a look at this >website. Click on "tech notes" and then "bass loading" and read that. He basically repeats the same things that i said in that and a few other threads. For sake of clarity, i'm not taking credit or saying anything that hasn't been said and proven to be fact long ago.

If you doubt these facts or just want to delve deeper into the subject and learn for yourself, pick up a copy of Vance Dickason's Loudspeaker design cookbook. As i've mentioned before, I would always encourage one to learn for themselves, both through reading and hands on experience. The more that you know, the less bullshit you'll be forced to unknowingly swallow.

Believe me, i learned the hard way. I used to think that sealed speakers were for idiots when i was younger. Why would anyone want a speaker that didn't play as loud, go as low or took more power to operate? The answer is obvious once you learn how and what to listen for. Like i said before, quality vs quantity. Sean
>
Thanks Sean, the link did not work:
http://www.theultimatemonitor.com/default2.htm
I read and reread the 'Speaker Design Cookbook 10 years ago and reread it 'til I understood it.

For anyone that believe's you can't get great tuneful bass out of subs design toward cars, then you don't or won't understand the Cookbook.

I've forgottern more on the subject of subs in a vehecle than most people will ever know. Lets not forget, the driver is only part of the equation. The cabinet and the interior of the auto also have to be taken into consideration, if you really want topnotch bass in a 4 wheeler.

But the bs you find in car audio can be found from manufacturers of home audio.

Example that pops in my mind every time I see it, is the Sunfire subs that claim 2400 watts of amp output. Not happening in that product. Very simple reason. A 15 amp breaker will blow long before you achieve 2400 watts.

I have forgotten the formula, as I mentioned earlier I've forgotten a lot of this stuff, but if I recall correctly, about 1500-1800 watts is the max draw on a 15 amp circuit.

There's as much deceptive advertising in home audio as car audio.

CDC, you can't change the laws of physics. A vented box can NOT give the same Q, QTS, of a sealed designed. Read the book. Please.