Refinish speaker in different color

While I agree that this is a difficult feat, and NOT worth the effort, it potentially could be done. As opposed to stripper, which you will need to remove the polyurethane, acrylic, or lacquer, you will need to bleach the wood to remove the stain. There are three types of bleach(including clorox) used for this, and you may need to try each to find the type that will work.

There is absolutely NO gurantee it will work, and you should either get a different pair of speakers, or look into replacing the veneer completely. In the end, because you are working with black and trying to achieve maple(your cherry would be more attainable), my advice is to LEAVE IT ALONE!

Here's a though:

Why not re-veneer them. I had a pair of B&W DM302's veneered by a local cabinet maker a few years ago. He removed all the drivers, sanded them and attached new veneer using a vacuum press. Granted, it cost $300, which is about what the speakers cost new, but the wife is happy which is the important part.

PS-I'm a weekend woodworker. I haven't done any veneering myself yet; I like to work with solids.

As a few people mentioned above, some types of veneer can be refinished if one is very careful. These veneers are usually used on furniture meant to withstand daily contact (like an armoir or dresser) and are MUCH thicker than those typically used on speaker cabinets which are usually only slightly thicker than a childrens colored contstruction paper. Unfortunately for your situation, it is highly unlikely that you have a refinishable veneer, unless these are VERY expensive speakers.

However, Prpixel has a good idea and probably the only workable option mentioned in this thread (other than reselling the speakers and buying the ones with the finish you want). Having them vacuum veneered is the proper (and best) way to do the job to insure good veneer adhesion, but if you are fairly handy you could attempt a re-veneer yourself to keep the cost down. All you would need is the veneer, adhesive, several sharp blades, a good smooth roller and plenty of time. Be careful and take your time...that is the key. Keep in mind, though, that trimming veneer can be a real PITA. Hope that helps and good luck.

I like the idea of reveneering over the old veneer. While there are pure veneers to work with (ick), I tend to favor the pre-glued veneers--either PSA (pressure sensitive) or iron-ons. I realize it doesn't sound as secure as using hide glue and a vacuum press (and it probably isn't) but you aren't making something that is going to suffer a lot of abuse (and how many of us have vacuum presses anyway?). B'sides, its a helluva lot more secure than I guessed before actually using it.

I tend to think the heat sensitive veneers will probably work better for you--you can get it trimmed and squared up, and then apply heat. I've used PSA veneer to edge band a desk--2" veneer cut back to 1.5". Trimming is relatively easy with a very sharp knife and some touch up with 400 grade sandpaper. I also highly recommend the rub on poly coatings. Very easy to apply and you get a great finish with 4 or so coats.

Er, I wouldn't exactly try this on my ProAcs, however. Might do it on the Monitor Audio B2s used as surrounds, however. YMMV.