Power supply improvement for CD player

If you haven't already; the simplest place to start is a
high quality power cord(ie: Synergistic Research or Analysis
Plus) and HI-FI Tuning Supreme main fuse. Replace the
diodes with HEXFRED or Cree Schottky
rectifiers(http://www.partsconnexion.com/rectifier_diode_cree.html), the regulators with
Bellesons(http://www.partsconnexion.com/regulator_belleson_main.html) and as many capacitors as possible, with Sanyo OS-
CONs(http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_ele_oscon.html)
and/or Nichicon Fine
Golds(http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_ele_nichicon_fg.html). Parts Connexion has a sale on right now; 20% off
on everything and deeper discounts on the Bellesons.

Hey man, this is the method. #1: Settle on a power cord. Detachable cords are BULL. If your unit has an EIC/whatever, socket...you want to trace the AC input path up to the transformer. If you encounter a fuse, or some Power conditioning circuit, solder the the bare positive of the power cord directly to the fuse, and a short wire from the other side of the fuse to the transformer input. Shorten any wire lengths as possible. Trace the ground and solder the bare power cord ground wire to the spot. Secure the power cord to the chassis in a manor that is secure. #2: Un- bolt the transformer from the chassis. Find/buy a adequate size (for the transformer) block, or square of rubbery stuff (that wont melt or burst into flames from modest heat). Buy some GE Silicone III(gold). Generously glue the rubber pad to the chassis, then glue the bottom of the transformer to the pad.*NOTE: DO NOT PLACE THE UNIT-UPSIDE DOWN, OR ON SIDES AFTER THIS STEP...FOREVER. Be brave, you can manage that. Let the silicone cure, and now, step #3: You want to fabricate a wall/barer to isolate the the transformer and anything AC, or having to do with power supply, from the other circuits within the chassis. By all means, strive for engineering excellence. But, you can glue Aluminum Foil to cut-out to shape Cardboard with the GE silicone, Form your wall in the chassis up to the top of the chassis(mind that the cover can be secured without crush/deforming wall) and GLUE IT IN PLACE. Attach a small wire from the foil to the chassis. CONGRATULATIONS...what you have done is to DIRECTLY SOLDERED the AC Connection out to the wall, "FLOATED" the Transformer TO ELIMINATE VIBRATION TRANSFER to chassis, and ISOLATED THE POWER SUPPLY within the unit. Without modifying the actual power supply circuit, this is the best you can do. You may feel compelled to improvise on the steps described. By all means, use your imagination to raise the modification to your own standard of excellence. The result as described is max purity of device operation. Another level of performance from the same Unit. *Try this with ALL your components. All the best to you.

Great posts! Great.....I love it. Agoners learn!

If you take the steps RODMAN99999 outlined, you WILL change the output character of the circuit. Beware of spending money on "across the board" modifications of older Digital equipment. I do not wish to discourage in any way, but be mindful that the D/A conversion scheme, and analog output stage were designed with the power supply to support them in a R&D situation. substitution of power supply components that are "better" does not, as a rule, ensure a more desirable Audio quality. Brightness, edge, forwardness or an opaque quality all are possible results of power supply circuit alterations out-of-hand without trial and evaluation. This law when it comes to fine audio. Ultimately, the digital and analog circuits of you unit have the last say on quality of output. If you like the sound of your unit now and wish to enhance it, think twice about changes that will require money and component swaps on the power supply. The result might disappoint, or be unacceptably different from what you had. Apply "passive" modifications...My advice, or just get a "better" unit. Good luck, and enjoy the music.

If the power supply components are replaced with those as
outlined, and of the same values as the OEMs; the only
characteristics that will change will be a quieter/blacker
background, greater dynamics, more natural highs and
improved sound staging/imaging. I've done these mods, or
similar, to a wide variety of components, over the past 35
years. The reactions/appreciation, from my customers, were
unanimous and always enthusiastic. Virtually every piece of
equipment I've personally owned, has also undergone power
supply mods, with nothing but a more realistic presentation
as a result. I listen to way too much live music, every
week, to accept otherwise. I don't hand out advice lightly.