Tube preamp for SS amp


6922, 6H30 or 6SN7 decisions decisions. What sounds good to me might not sound so good to somebody else....I get it, but is there a tube preamp/solid state amp that is not a good match sonically (running a pass labs x250.5 and bryston 4bsst2). I can drive 2hrs and audition some ACR equipment however that's it. Everything else would be purchased out of state and most places will have to special order something else in (ie modwright ls100, cj ET3SE, audible illusions...) and will only take the equipment back for store credit.
chad2635
Not sure about your price-range but VAC is a thought. I run a Phi Beta pre-amp into Bryston 28B-SST2 amps and the combo works beautifully together. This VAC model, like the Signature 2a, is based on the 8416 tube, an Amperex 12v version of the 6DJ8/6922/7308 family. But it has a switch enabling the use of the latter, so you can tube-role to your heart's content. I prefer the 8416, personally.

The 28B input impedance is 16.5K, single-ended, with 23db of gain on its low setting, which I use. Not sure but I'd think the 4B-SST2 would be the same. VAC claims the Phi Beta will easily drive loads down to 200 ohms, so no issues there; and it outputs 12db of gain. VAC pre-amps other than the Phi Beta and Sig 2a are much higher gain--more than 20db, I believe--so be sure to check with VAC about compatibility if you're thinking about trying one. They're helpful folks.
If you want a tube preamp to drive a solid state amplifier, the thing to look at is the output impedance at 20Hz. What it is at 1000Hz is really not that important- most any tube preamp will have an acceptable output impedance at that frequency. Its how the preamp behaves in the bass that is important.

This is because most tube preamps have an output coupling capacitor that is part of the equation of output impedance. At 1KHz, its no big deal but at 20Hz that coupling cap becomes a major influence on the numbers and can cause a loss of bass impact.

To counter this issue, some tube preamps have a large coupling cap so they can drive solid state. The problem is, the bigger you make that capacitor, the more it can color the sound, even if its Teflon. The reason has to do with the inductance that the cap has which is something independent of the insulator in the cap. The bigger the cap, the more inductance (due to the fact that the cap is wound). This creates a tension in the design where the cap is chosen to color the sound the least, while at the same time not affecting the bass. It is at best a compromise.

A very small number of tube preamps have a direct-coupled output, which sidesteps the issue.
Chad2635,

I've had a CJ pre/Pass amp combo for several years now. It is one of the best combos I've ever put together. They seem to be made for each other. Hope you get a chance to try it yourself.

I wouldn't worry about the volume control, it's a very good one and they are important. It's not push, push, push. You just hold the remote or preamp button down and a motor moves it until you get where you want. There is the "clicking" but I got used to it immediately. As far as longevity, it should last a long time.

I've also found that the 3 CJ preamps I use, two ARTs (6922 based) and one ACT 2.2 (6h30 based), have been very compatible with other amps I have used...SET's, PP tubes and a couple Tripath based chip amps. !5' rca interconnects were no problem with my CJ's 500 ohm "average" output impedance.

Good luck with your choice.