Regarding the Discovery wire....I didn't ask Harry that question. The Nordost wire I had in the 10.5i was definitely more sensitive to the upper frequencies, and thus sounded "harder" overall. The most salient characteristic about the 3D arm is is sense of absolute ease as I said before. For those car lovers out there, its like comparing a very capable Honda Accord to a Porsche. There is no azimuth ring on the 3D....that is why the azimuth control was so difficult. You must turn the rear counterweight (heavier on the bottom) in such a way as to balance the arm on the head of the pin so that the satisfactory result can be obtained. There are 2 (rubber??) rings inside the rear counterweight that grip very strongly. To rotate the counterweight with precision is mainly luck. What I have said will not be true with the normally supplied rear counterweight which includes the Counterintuitive which would make that rear counterweight much more manageable. In any case, if you are using this arm (or any arm) you should use the most appropriate weight to get it as close as possible to the fulcrum. As I mentioned, Harry is nearly complete in presenting the new counterweight for the 3D which he promises would make setup easy. I am not using bias correction at all....when Harry sends me the new counterweight I will try the arm with bias compensation, but as for now...I'm not touching a thing. It sounds fabulous.
To my dumb friend Don....My 10.5 was set up with extreme care. The ss's and sh's on my 10.5i was not NEARLY as smooth or natural as on the 3D...one would be delighted with its performance unless one would compare the ease that the 3D demonstrates.
To my dumb friend Don....My 10.5 was set up with extreme care. The ss's and sh's on my 10.5i was not NEARLY as smooth or natural as on the 3D...one would be delighted with its performance unless one would compare the ease that the 3D demonstrates.