$7K to spend on new turntable + arm

Dweller and others ... I own a "hot rodded" VPI Classic 2.5 (that is, a Classic 1/2 plinth with a Classic 3 tone arm and base). I am satisfied with the VPI's performance, but then again, I have no basis for, comparison as this has been my only high-end table. Previously owned an old vintage Thorens TD 160.

Just want to touch on the point mentioned above about uni-pivots. The VPI made me somewhat anxious on my first couple of set-ups. Also had some problems finding a cartridge that worked well with the uni-pivot system.

That's all behind me now. I can swap out cartridges pretty quickly now, in part, because I don't go OCD with set up.

As to the point about uni-pivot instability, I can only say that if there's a problem, I'm not aware about it. Also, I thought quite a few other TT/tonearm brands use a uni-pivot system. For some reason, I thought the Graham was a uni-pivot. Maybe the other uni-pivot brands are more stable. Dunno,' but the VPI suits me ok.

"Ranks in the highest category with 3 others"
Man, that is really funny.

BPowers, I have no dog in this fight. I don't own any of the turntables under discussion, and none of them would interest me. However, when you say your VPI runs a bit slow, I hope you do realize that one of the tremendous benefits of a proper motor controller, first and foremost, is to allow you to adjust speed. If you are set on getting a belt-drive table, I very strongly recommend that you spend some additional money on a fine quality motor controller. I would even go so far as to say that you might compromise on the cost of the tt in order to be able to afford the controller. Many companies sell an optional accessory controller to go with their belt-drive product. If you can ascertain that said controller really works well, buy it. (But beware; there is some crap out there in controller world.) Some of the newest products "come with" a good motor controller. You want the capability of the controller to match the type of motor. For example, a 3-phase synchronous motor demands a complex controller that can supply the juice in phase, optimally.

The question should be not whether the platter spins at exactly 33.33 rpm with no load on the system (because that's usually fixable with a good controller) but how it acts when subjected to the constantly variable load seen while you play an LP. If you do some research on this forum, you can find some info on which turntables do that well and which do not.

Why should a footfall put spurious 60Hz signal on your speakers, unless that's the resonant frequency of your current set-up. "60Hz" is typically hum from improper grounding, and it's usually constant.

Lewn, I just chose 60hz since the turntable seems to be influenced by low frequency external sounds (knock on turntable, footfall, low bass from the record itself). No relationship whatsoever to the typical 60Hz ground hum. According to reviews, Dr. Feicker's tables do not exhibit this characteristic.

VPI has a controller, but I don't want to add a secondary solution to something that should work out of the box. Hopefully I won't need another controller solution with a new table, but I appreciate the information. I will read the other forums as recommended.

TW ACUSTIC TABLES run 100% on speed.