Turnable database with TimeLine


Here is a database showing various turntables being tested for speed accuracy and speed consistency using the Sutherland TimeLine strobe device. Members are invited to add their own videos showing their turntables.

Victor TT-101 with music

Victor TT-101 stylus drag

SME 30/12

Technics SP10 MK2a

Denon DP-45F
peterayer
Hiho,
Simple answer: I have not yet listened to the TT101, ever! Mine came as part of a QL10 (TT101 + Victor laminated wood plinth + Victor 7045 tonearm). The ensemble is in "like new" condition. I expect to listen to the TT101, at first, in this context. An assessment of the QL10 plinth, at first glance, is that it is "adequate". A big weak point, IMO, is the armboard, which is laminated wood and not terribly dead. My first goal would be to replace the armboard with one made of either Alu or brass. I just looked up the cost of the brass... more than $100 for a slab that would then need to be machined. So, perhaps alu will do for now. I have a piece already suited to it.

So last night I installed the TT101 motor into the QL10 plinth. For my personal preference, I re-set the tach to read out in "Hold" mode, rather than "Run" mode. In Hold, it reads out the steady state speed. In Run, it re-zeros itself every few seconds and then runs itself up to actual speed, over and over again. Interestingly, I got it back from the last repair guy in Run mode; I had never used it in Run mode prior to now.

When re-set in Hold mode, my unit malfunctions exactly as it did when I sent it off last time: it gets up to speed and holds it for about 90 seconds. Then it starts to show a very tiny speed error, e.g., 33.32 or 33.34, instead of 33.33. That event is premonitory to total shutdown. The tach goes blank and the "off" light goes on. The platter coasts to a stop with no brake effect. I initially blamed the recurrence of the old problem to the fact that I had had to tighten the tiny screws that hold the big metal outer chassis cover onto the lower motor assembly, in order to fit the TT101 into its plinth; otherwise the screws foul the wooden rim around the opening for the TT. I had previously observed that the unit works "better" when those screws are loose. I was about to take the TT101 out of its plinth again, to remove those damned screws entirely and leave the cage loose, but I had another thought at the last moment to see how the TT would work if I re-set the tach mode to Run. Sure enough, the table has been working beautifully and consistently all day long, on either 33 or 45 setting. This is consistent with Bill Thalmann's remark that the servos are slaved to the tach read-out. Also, I note that when the TT101 is working really well, as today, the platter comes to a complete halt immediately when you press Stop. This suggests that both the forward and reverse servos are doing their jobs. (There is no mechanical brake, to those who do not own one of these beasts, unlike in the Technics and other tt's.) When it is failing, and if I depress Stop before the failure mode kicks in, the platter will drift counter-clockwise for about one revolution and THEN stop, again pointing to the reverse servo as a culprit. It's all well and good to analye the problem, but finding the glitch and fixing it is a daunting task. I will leave mine alone as long as it works in Run mode.

This must be boring as watching paint dry, to anyone who does not own a TT101. Sorry. And I guess it's OT as well, but Halcro owns a TT101, so maybe he does not mind. The moral of the story is if you own a TT101, it is best to own at least one other reliable tt.
Lew
Bill T advises that electonics of that era be kept powered continuously to improve longevity.
From memory it was something to do with the substrate used in IC's of the time.

Others have noticed sonic benefits when doing this regardless of the vintage. Maybe worthwhile for reliability as well ?

Could imagine reliability benefits simply by avoiding the heat cycling switching on and off causes.

Good luck.
Richard, So many of my "conclusions" as regards what the hell is going on with the TT101 eventually prove themselves to be false or only half true, that I am loathe to make any pronouncements, but I do see with my unit that keeping it powered on all day yesterday was a good thing to have done. And in fact it started the day from "cold", malfunctioning with the tach in Hold position. It was warmed up when I switched into Run mode. One might argue that had I switched back from Run to Hold later, after it was warmed up, it might have worked fine. Thus my conclusion above that my unit works correctly only in the Run mode could be incorrect. Frankly, I don't care, so long as it does work.

Now you are going to make me run home tonight and turn on all my DD tt's. They have been sitting idle for quite some time, because I have been using only the Lenco on the Beveridge speaker system. There's no room to set up a second tt anywhere near the preamp.
The moral of the story is if you own a TT101, it is best to own at least one other reliable tt.
When you realise that the innards look like this....there is certainly value to your 'moral'?

On the other hand.......the much cheaper and simpler TT-81 may be the answer to that 'back-up' turntable?
Sounds just as fine to me......
TT81 for others, maybe. I've got DP80, L07D, SP10 Mk3, Lenco for "back-up".

TT101 is looking good. I am leaving it power up. Your quite right that the innards are a veritable rat's nest. I have observed that it is difficult to pack all the wiring back into the metal canister, after working on the circuit. In particular, the AC cord has to be folded just so, otherwise it won't fit. Plus there are all those interconnecting wire harnesses. My hypothesis is that the workers who built these things knew precisely how to lay out everything for final assembly. Then, after 30 years of aging of solder joints and PCB traces, we come along and take the tt's apart and cram them back together when work is done. It is my observation that incorrect routing of the wiring harnesses and AC cord followed by "cramming" can cause the various PCBs to bend a bit, thus putting stress on solder joints and tracings. I would bet this has a lot to do with our problems.