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Removing Morch DP-6 tonearm wires from cartridge

I will be replacing the cartridge on my Morch/Moerch tonearm once I get my new cartridge. This will be only the second time I have installed a cartridge on a tonearm; please forgive me for all of the the newbie questions.

I noticed that the rubber boots (?? I don't know the proper terminology) that cover the clips on the end of the tonearm wires seem to be a bit dried out, with some small cracks in them as well, and so I am concerned that they might disintegrate when I try to remove the clips from the cartridge contact pins. (I haven't actually touched the boots to see whether or not they are still pliable, this is an observation from visual inspection only.)

Is there a trick to removing the clips easily? (I'm already worried because I know how fragile the wires themselves are.) Is there perhaps some sort of moisturizer or lubricant I can use that won't interfere with the electrical connection but will make it easier to remove the clips, and that might also "replenish" the rubber of the 'boots' ? (Or does the condition of the boots not really matter as long as the wires themselves are OK?)

Holly
oakiris
rodrigaj
32 posts
 
I own two Moerch tonearms. One has the rubber booty and the other does not. Makes absolutely no difference. You don't want to send this arm for a rewire. You will need to send it to Denmark, you won't see it for 6 to 8 months, and it will cost more money than you can imagine. An overhaul of the entire arm is $850. A significant part of the job is rewiring, so I would guess that will run $500.

The point I'm making is to be very careful with the wires when changing cartridges. Craft stores such as Michaels sell small needle nose pliers that have plastic noses that come in various shapes. They are what I use as they are intended for jewelry / earring assemblies that require precision and that won't gouge the wiring.
oakiris OP
206 posts
 
I will be very careful removing the wires; they are very fragile and I definitely cannot afford to have the tonearm rewired because I was careless - well, I can't afford to have the tonearm rewired, period, given the prices quoted by you, Rodrigaj. Thank you for the tip about using jeweler's needle nose pliers also - I might just apply some rubber tool dip on the metal jaws of a pair of needle noses I already have.

"I wonder if a dab of Vaseline would make the rubber more pliable without altering anything?"

Hmmm... I know some people recommend using Vaseline on car battery posts to keep them from oxidizing/corroding, so I 'assume'it would be OK on contacts. However, I can also see it attracting dust, which is in plentiful supply here where I live so I don't think I would want to use it. The same probably holds true of dielectric grease, which is used for spark plug boots. If the boot fall apart, I will just need to figure out another way of color coding them

Holly
dougdeacon
3,338 posts
 
Excellent point about attracting dust. I wouldn't bother.

If the boots disintegrate you can color code each wire with a dab of nail polish. Buy four colors. You'll need less than a drop of each and can go wild on your nails with the rest!

Another tool that works is a small-nosed medical hemostat. Be careful not to clamp down on the tubular portion of the clip. You don't want to squash it flat.

If a clip has spread so that it's too large to grip the pins snugly, slide a wooden toothpick inside and gently squeeze the clip closed until it's a better fit. A wooden toothpick will "give" a little under pressure, which helps control the amount you shrink the clip while preventing the clip from collapsing altogether.
brf
1,715 posts
 
Stay away from vasoline or any other petroleum based prodcuts with rubber based products. Vasoline will break down rubber and plastics.
mofimadness's avatar
mofimadness
4,982 posts
 
Sharpies work really well for color coding and are a little easier and cheaper to use than nail polish. That's what I've always used.
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