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DIY AC cable...which bulk cable?

I am thinking about making a DIY AC cable for my linear power supply (19v, 6amps) feeding my music server PC. From looking at the VH Audio site, there are several options for bulk wire, which would you choose and why?

12 AWG unshielded twisted pair (Chris Venhaus Flavor 2 cable) ($6/ft)
Acrolink 7N-P4030 10AWG ($61/ft)
Neotech NEP-3001 10 AWG ($35/ft)
Oyaide Tunami ($30/ft)

Thank you.
128x128tboooe
jazzonthehudson's avatar
jazzonthehudson
277 posts
 
Lacee,

thanks for your comments. I mentioned $250 as I want not to exclude good alternatives. Which Furutech model would you recommend that has the best value in the upper end?
As a rule of thumb I never buy the most expensive ones, though IME the GTX-D(r) is my favorite for audio and SR TeslaPlex SE for home theater application. Per my system description, I have dedicated lines for all my systems.
tboooe's avatar
tboooe OP
1,009 posts
 
I use the Oyaide P4/C4 which I find to have a very clean, clear sound though I am very curious to try the Furutech F1-50 too.
lacee
811 posts
 
I purchased the Furutech FI 48 R because they were 25% off.
I think they are one step below the top model.
They are a good match to the Furutech rhodium top level IEC in the amps,the only connectors in the line from the panel.
That line is simple 10 guage solid core Romex, and a generic 20 amp breaker.

I've had good luck with Furutech, but there are other brands that would offer similar improvements over stock power cords.

I have long runs so I use romex.
If the distance from the panel to the gear was short I would improve on the wiring,but I think better connectors can improve cheap wire, whereas cheap connectors will compromise the expensive wires.
heyimderrick
19 posts
 
Just to follow up to my earlier comment, I ended up making 4 PCs using the DH Labs Power Plus AC Reference bulk cable. Purchased from the Cable Co and was shipped direct from DH Labs to me. The cable is very robust, looks amazing, and it 'fairly' easy to work with. The outer jacket is pretty stiff at first, and you have to be careful cutting it because the jackets on the internal wires are pretty thin and easy to nick. Overall, a really nice cable. Very neutral in tone. Just gives you pure, noise-free power delivery.
williewonka
3,103 posts
 
Heyimderrick - since you seem like a handy guy - are you game for a
simple cable tweak ?

Once the cables are burned in, instead of just inserting the bare cable into
the connector, crimp small spades onto the conductors and then insert
those into the connector.

I first tried this on my 10 gauge cable - it was quite cumbersome, but the
spade made installation of the connectors easier.

The effect however, was immediately noticeable.

I found this improves detail, image and dynamics, especially on my source
components.

I used inexpensive spades ($1.20 for 10) from an electronics hobby store -
just make sure the spade is a fairly tight fit on the wire. The spades
normally have the gauge on them.

Why does it make a difference? The only reason I can think of is the spade
provides a larger area for the connection.

BTW, I also have pretty good crimping pliers - the crimp width is about
6mm.

I have tried this on DH Labs Encore cable and it worked well.

The spades take about five hours to burn in completely, but you should
notice some improvement right away..

Something to try on these long winter nights :-)
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