I was looking at some speaker cables that were " bi-wired". They were one set of cable with one end having the normal - & + ends and the other being bi-wired, having the 4 ends. This would not be utilizing the advantages of what you're suggesting (as far as I'm understanding).
Correct. As I mentioned earlier, you need 4 independent connections at each end.
I am already using the 4ohm in my current setup. Does that mean it won't help the bass issue? Or will it still help because the low impedence power will be more focused on the lower frequency instead of shared with the highs? Also, will this put more stress on my amp, making it put out power from both? Anything to be concerned about?
Given the impedance characteristics of your particular speakers, changing from having both sections of the speaker driven from the 4 ohm tap to having its low frequency section driven from the 4 ohm tap and its high frequency section driven from the 8 ohm tap will alter the overall frequency balance in the direction you want.
Obviously there are no guarantees as to how much of a difference it will make, considering the other factors that are contributing, and there are no guarantees that it won't have some unpredictable sonic downsides. But it seems to me to be well worth trying.
You won't overstress the amp by doing this, or cause any other problems I can foresee. As I'm sure you realize everything should be turned off when connections are being worked with, and obviously you should make sure that any connections to adjacent terminals are not in contact with each other. Also, a tube amp should not be operated without a speaker being connected to it.
Please let me know how I can put two wires in the 0 ohm terminal. Only thing I can think of is if I take out the banana plug and twist the other wire into it and then put back the banana plug.
You can probably judge that better than I can, based on the physical dimensions that are involved. But a good approach that would appear certain to work would be to use a banana plug such as
this one, which can accept up to an 8 gauge (VERY thick) wire into its rear opening, and up to a 12 gauge wire into its side opening (or perhaps vice versa; it looks like the description may have an error). (Keep in mind that the lower the gauge number, the thicker the wire).
You would want to have a wire stripper to be able to strip off the insulation cleanly, something like
this.
Some of the other listings
here might provide additional possibilities.
Good luck! Regards,
-- Al
