Time To Replace Tubes?


I was wondering when do you guys decide to change your tubes?Are there any indications to listen for to know that you are at the end of your time with a set of tubes short of them blowing up on you?
I have a Wright 3.5 that has the 2a3,6sn7 and 5y3 rectifier tube in it.I was using a set of NOS Brimar's in the 6sn7 position.Recently i started thinking my mids were not there in my system and thought that my newly acquired modwright Sony 999ES may have been part of the problem.Well on a whim i swapped back in the stock EH6sn7's that came with the amp.I have very low hours on those tubes as i put the Brimars in not long after getting the Wright's.WEll my lordy the soundstage became huge and warm and just awesome just with swapping back in those EH's.
Maybe they just work better synergistically with the Modwright player i don't know.Maybe the Brimars are still fine but sounded lean with this player?
But back to my original thought on this is there something you can audibly listen for when you know your tubes are going?
Now i wonder if replacing the 2a3 or the 5y3 will bring even more sonic gains?It sounds incredibly better now just with that 6sn7 swap.I was looking into new speaker wire and possibly a tube preamp and here all i really needed to get those mid guts were to put back in those EH's.I'm loving that too cause they are a heck of alot cheaper then the NOS route.
What a pleasant surprise!! : )
seekburk
There are a few amps that are manufactured with a digital clock built in so you can keep track of "on time" and have some approximate idea of when the tubes might need attention (some ARC amps for one). It is also interesting just to have some idea of the amount of time you spend listening.

You can add such a timer in several ways, the simplest of which is to plug one into a switched outlet on the preamp (if you have one). More challenging is to design a timer interface that runs off the 12v trigger. Or you can just start and stop a timer manually (of course it is easy to forget).

My timer shows about 10 hours per week on the average right now. At that rate a set of 6550 amp output tubes should last at least 2 years. However, it all depends on the amp, the tubes, the amount of use, the level of play and some luck etc.
since tube amps are symmetrical, whenever there's something going on soundwise which is tube-related, you can do things like swap out tubes like you did or, if the funny business is in one channel, switch the left and right channel tubes one by one to isolate the problem. this is especially true for input tubes like your 6sn7s or preamp tubes. bad tubes often make nasty sounds when you tap on them. I don't think it's a good idea to get into the mind-set of 'there's something wrong with my tubes that I can't actually hear'.
assuming you're biasing your tubes, that will tell you how your power tubes are doing: if they're having trouble holding a bias, you may have a bad one. and eventually they just fail, often in very unsubtle ways with loud noises.
hi,

I'm using the Sophia Electric 2.5 volt 300b's in my Wright Mono 3.5s and they are great, they have displaced my nos RCA dual plates.

I'm using a Rayethon VT231 as a 6sn7 and can highly recommend it also.

Larry
Yes, there are gold EH6sn7s. I have one. I bought 4 EH6sn7s at CES. They didn't have enough of the regular ones, so I bought one gold one. The gold referes to the pins being gold plated. The EH rep assured me that there were no internal differneces betwen the gold and regular 6SN7s, just the presence of gold plating on the pins. I don't know if the gold makes any differnece in sound. I think the only reason for the gold is for corrosion prevention, as the tin plating (I'm guessing that's the standard finish on non-gold pins) may oxidize over time, and reduce contact conductivity. Gold, on the other hand, doesn't corrode, as evidenced by gold items that are recovered from ancient shipwrecks that are just as shiny as the day they wer made, and the ability to find golod nuggets in nature, whereas other metals must be refined from ore.

In any event, I'm not convinced gold is the way to go, unless you also have gold plated tube sockets (Do these exist? I don't know). The reason being that when dissimialr metals are placed in close contact to each other, the one less prone to corrosion will cause the other metal to corrode faster than it would on its own. Since gold is the least likely of al lmetals to corrode, it can cause other metals to corrode more rapidly. This effect is much more important when the metals are in contact with water, but it can't help. I think I'm better off using tin pins in tin sockets. Where the pins aer actually in the closest contact will probably not corrode, since there is no air for oxygen to get in. Everywhere else on the pin will oxidize a bit, but these araeas are not conducting anyway. When you remove and reinstall the tube (for whatever reason), the scraping of the pin in socket should clean the oxide layer off.
I'm using these tubes in a pair of Atma-Sphere MA1s. They replace the stock Chinese tubes. Although I don't have enough tubes to retube both amps, comparing one amp w/all Chinese tubes to one w/ 4 EH tubes, the EH one sounds a bit more resolving of detail, and has tighter bass. The difference was not huge, but noticeable.
I guess your original question is still unanswered - does the EH sound better than the NOS because the NOS is worn out or because a good EH sounds better (in this situation) than the perfectly good NOS. Good question. Sounds like you need a tube tester.