I posted that quote from Terry Cain (whose speakers I own). Oddly, at the time he posted that humorous blurb on AA, I owned only one amp thought he was joking (which he half was). Now, I own four or five depending on the week.
My experiences have been that amplification differences tend to be much more readily apparent in the low power/high-efficiency realm than higher powered setups.
Part of my buying spree was due to the fact that I had just made the jump to a low power/high-efficiency system. The odds of buying just one amp and knowing for a fact that it is absolutely the best sound for your own personal preferences in a new system is a long shot at best.
Who can which which design is right for their system without ever hearing a few of them? - Push-pull, SET, SEP, Parallel PP, cap-couple, transformer-coupled, cathode follower, Lofton-White, etc.
Who can say which output tube - 45, 300B, 2A3, 6C33C-B, EL34, EL84, 211, 845, KT-66, KT-88, KT-90, 6550, etc. is the right one without ever hearing them in their own system?
What about the influence of input and driver tubes?
Informed decisions require in-home experience with multiple designs and tube types before settling on something permanently. Now that I've done that, I'm downsizing to just two (or three amps) this month - Art Audio PX-25, Welborne DRD 300B monoblocks, and a DIY fully differential PP amp. Each has it's own special merits depending on the material being played.
Also, I'm not sure any single amp can do it all best - the PX-25 comes damn closests out of the 15 or so amps I've tried the last few years, but even then, a really good PP design is better on large orchestral, hard rock, or percussion heavy music. And the 300B's do ambient/spatial information in a way that is hard to match. Take choral or classical music performed in a large cathedral - nothin like the 300B for that spooky ambient hall sound.
My experiences have been that amplification differences tend to be much more readily apparent in the low power/high-efficiency realm than higher powered setups.
Part of my buying spree was due to the fact that I had just made the jump to a low power/high-efficiency system. The odds of buying just one amp and knowing for a fact that it is absolutely the best sound for your own personal preferences in a new system is a long shot at best.
Who can which which design is right for their system without ever hearing a few of them? - Push-pull, SET, SEP, Parallel PP, cap-couple, transformer-coupled, cathode follower, Lofton-White, etc.
Who can say which output tube - 45, 300B, 2A3, 6C33C-B, EL34, EL84, 211, 845, KT-66, KT-88, KT-90, 6550, etc. is the right one without ever hearing them in their own system?
What about the influence of input and driver tubes?
Informed decisions require in-home experience with multiple designs and tube types before settling on something permanently. Now that I've done that, I'm downsizing to just two (or three amps) this month - Art Audio PX-25, Welborne DRD 300B monoblocks, and a DIY fully differential PP amp. Each has it's own special merits depending on the material being played.
Also, I'm not sure any single amp can do it all best - the PX-25 comes damn closests out of the 15 or so amps I've tried the last few years, but even then, a really good PP design is better on large orchestral, hard rock, or percussion heavy music. And the 300B's do ambient/spatial information in a way that is hard to match. Take choral or classical music performed in a large cathedral - nothin like the 300B for that spooky ambient hall sound.