No more snake oil than the alternative methods (theories) of 'draining' vibrations or isolating from incoming vibrations.
You have some kind of metal pointy things at one end of the spectrum and soft squishy things at the other end. Seems like wood blocks of some type would be a nice intermediary position. But why Myrtle wood would be better or worse than plywood, pine, birch, mahogany, oak etc, I couldn't begin to fathom, except that each has different densities and might work better for draining vibrations at certain critical frequencies.
BTW Cardas sells those little blocks also and makes the blocks that Ayre sells. Uses the same magic formula as he uses in his cables. I use his cables, maybe.......
If I might make make a suggetion - go to Home Depot, or some such, buy a board ft of soft pine and a board ft of hard oak, cut it into 4 pieces, put them under your component and see for your self if it will make a meaningfull difference to you. If you can hear anything at all get in line for some of those Myrtlewood specials, they are cheap enuf as tweeks go.
You have some kind of metal pointy things at one end of the spectrum and soft squishy things at the other end. Seems like wood blocks of some type would be a nice intermediary position. But why Myrtle wood would be better or worse than plywood, pine, birch, mahogany, oak etc, I couldn't begin to fathom, except that each has different densities and might work better for draining vibrations at certain critical frequencies.
BTW Cardas sells those little blocks also and makes the blocks that Ayre sells. Uses the same magic formula as he uses in his cables. I use his cables, maybe.......
If I might make make a suggetion - go to Home Depot, or some such, buy a board ft of soft pine and a board ft of hard oak, cut it into 4 pieces, put them under your component and see for your self if it will make a meaningfull difference to you. If you can hear anything at all get in line for some of those Myrtlewood specials, they are cheap enuf as tweeks go.