Black Gates - Standard vs FK/Non-Polars


Hi guys,

I replaced 12 stock electrolytic caps (teapo) in the signal path of my amp with 10 Standard and 2 Non-Polar Black Gates, and after 2 months of burn-in, the sound is better in some ways (lower noise, better detail and resolution) but tonally it has become a little colder and leaner, which is not of my liking.

I was wondering if by using Black Gates Npolar or FK instead of the Standard ones would I recover some warmth in the midbass, or if it would be about the same.

Does anybody have experience with the different Black Gates? are they tonally different? Or should try something different like maybe Nichicon Muse?

Thanks for any input.

Jov
jdec
Jov

I assume you are talking coupling caps.

It may be that your old caps were simply masking an inherent leanness of your amp. I have found that by upgrading the rectifying diodes to some ultra-fast/soft recovery types to take the ‘edge off’ in some equipment.

Before ripping out the BGs I would bypass them with a small film caps. I found Jensen Copper foil to be warm(ish). I have never bypassed BGs though, so do two and see what it sounds like.

You could also replace the signal path resisters with AN tantalums. I found them to ad a touch of warmth as well as add detail and resolution.

Regards
Paul
I replaced all the electrolytics in my old Threshold SL-10 preamp with Blackgate Standards, and was totally blown away with how good it sounded after just a little break-in time. Of course, I was replacing 25-year-old dried-out electrolytics with brand new caps.
If truly the caps were couplers in the signal path, you'd do much better with teflon or oil/paper couplers such as REL, V-Cap, or Mundorf. If they are power filtering caps then OK. Personally I prefer the sound of less expensive Rubycon ZA and ZL electrolytics over either type of BG. The small Rubys can be wired in parallel arrays to increase capacitance while decreasing impedance.
Thank you all for your responses.

To be honest, I don't know which caps are couplers, I just replaced all (12) small caps... that is, I did not replace the big power supply caps (8 of 6,800uF). Is there an easy way for someone without experience (like me) to recognize the coupling caps? are they maybe the very low value caps? (there are one 1uF and one 10uF caps per channel, the others are one 220uF and 3 100uF caps per channel).

Would it be a good idea to try something like REL/Auric/Hovland in place of the current 1uF and/or 10uF electolytics, even if the amp is solid state?

Thanks again for any help.

Jov