Actually, it sounds like you've made some real progress . . . the volume-control-related noise and the high-pitched squeal are gone. Would it only be that in diagnosis of an electrical system, solving one part of the problem always solved all of it . . .
Your measurements at the wall outlet are absolutely no cause for concern . . . I would say that the Cary exhibited a failure for reasons unrelated to anything external - it simply broke.
BUT, I still have a buzz at the speakers when everything is on. Is not a ground loop because everything has a cheater plug but the Anthem. And its present even when only the amp is hooked to the speakers and the wall.
So here's where we need some clarification. You need to hook up the Classe power amp up to the speakers, and to power (WITHOUT a cheater plug), and leave the inputs (coming from the Anthem processor) disconnected - that is, no interconnects attached to the amp in any fashion. If you have any other wiring to the amp (like a 12v power-control trigger cable, etc.), then disconnect it. I'm assuming conventional passive speakers (none with any built-in powered subs, no electrostats with power supplies, etc.). I'm assuming that the the amplifier is not physically touching a metal equipment rack, or any other electrical devices, or the metal ends of any other interconnects or cables. The only possible paths for electrical conductivity, with regards to the power amp, must be: 1) the loudspeaker cables, and 2) the power connection.
If all of the above conditions are met, and then the power amplifier is turned on, then there should be NO hum . . . if there is, then there is a problem with it. (Side note - some may say that it would be normal to still hear a bit of hum unless a shorting plug was installed on the amp input - and if this were an old tube amp with a high input impedance, that may be true. But for a modern SS amp like the Classe, you should hear NO hum.)
If you don't, then add the preamp/processor, with NOTHING ELSE physically plugged into it. Plug it into the same duplex outlet or power strip as the amplifier (again, WITHOUT cheater plug) and check hum. Continue this with every single piece in your system, individually, and in isolation, until you find the exact point at which the hum appears.
Oh and if the power amp does turn out to have a problem, the cause is still overwhelmingly likely to be a coincidince. All of the stuff you own was built by humans, and humans make mistakes.