2. amps-preamps
  3. 1215034627

Integrated amp with phono section for Totem Arro

Hello, gang,

I've been doing research on the following topic already, and I beg your indulgence if this topic has been beaten to death! :-)

In about a week, I should be the proud owner of a brand-new pair of Totem Arro speakers! :-)

Most of the rest of my system comes from the mid-1980s. This includes my amplifier, a PS Audio Elite Plus integrated amp, solid-state, of course, with 70 W per channel. I have assurances from PS Audio that this amplifier should, in theory, have no trouble driving the Arro, which presents a load of 4 ohms. What I'm wondering, however, it is since the Arro is, from everything I've heard, a VERY revealing little speaker, I'm concerned in advance what I ought to do for amplification if the Elite Plus turns out to sound harsh when paired with the Arro.

What I need, then, would be a much more modern, integrated amplifier, including a phono stage, because my main analog source is a SOTA Sapphire turntable.

I'd be looking at something that I could pick up for, say, $700 or less. Something used would be okay.

All suggestions welcome! :-)
rebbi
johnnyb53
3,510 posts
 
PS Audio was sort of ahead of the curve. There were some smooth and musical solid state amps in the '80s, and PS Audio stood out as one such. I have an Amber Series 70 power amp and it's another example. I think hanging tight with what you have is a good idea.

Since the Arros are bi-wirable/bi-ampable, if you find you need more power, find another '80s-era PS Audio amp. They should be pretty inexpensive by now. Then, for the price of one used amp you could bi-amp and double your power to each speaker.

In fact, here's a same-era 70 wpc PS Audio amp with a BIN of $200.
rebbi OP
1,326 posts
 
Okay, then. Consensus seems to be to "cool it," get the speakers broken in, then go from there. Thanks, y'all! :-)
rebbi OP
1,326 posts
 
Hmmm.... one other question... what about the NAD C372 with the Arro? Some good deals on that one out there right now...
tawaundabomb
38 posts
 
Rebbi,I was a owner of the Arro,the Unison Unico was a Magical combination with Mullard tubes in the preamp stage,it was really shocking how great that combo was.That was over 4 years ago and the Unico has gone up in price a bunch,but thank China for all the nice push-pull tube intergraedamps and Hybrids such as the Unico that are flooding the market in abundance,which mean music for the Arro's! and they are very affordable.Remember when it comes to amps for the Arro its about current 1st and formost and quality (tone,attributes ect.) more than quanity (watts) I had a Nad 320bee and it just didnt have the magic and dont listen to that claim from Totem that says "40-150 hours for break in" they wont really start clicking to around 300hrs and then they will really be singing at 450 hrs,yes yes i know its a long time but it will be a fun journey dont get paranoid it will be well worth it.You have a good Cdp with a solid transport,but I would have suggested a tube Cdp,but its ok just pick you up a good tube dac from Pacificvalve.com and call Underwoodaudio.com about the little great mods they have for the 25.2 which is the most mod friendly Cdp around,and get ready to approach your setup with your Turntable with your old Vandies or best it!
dcstep
1,518 posts
 
Rebbi, only consider the NAD when you're certain that you need more power. Moving from PS Audio to NAD at the same power levels is generally NOT considered an upgrade. Going from 70 to 150 watts is significant, but not a big jump. If it becomes apparent that you need more power, then a jump to 250 is likely to be more appropriate and you should be looking to upgrade quality at the same time or at least staying at the same quality level. That puts you looking at a bigger PS or a Bel Canto or something along those lines. Since you've gotten into more revealing speakers, the quality of the integrated amp is way more important than it used to be.

Dave
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