Have you tried the Furutech AND the Acme fuses?

OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturing. It is mainly used to describe parts for cars, airplanes and electrical systems. It is also used for computer parts and computer programs.

The name OEM is usually used when a new version of something is made by a company that is different to the company that first made it. The new company will sell the product at a cheaper price, but this is often because it does not have as many features as the first version. For example, an OEM computer program will usually only come with the disc and a licence, but no instruction manuals

Grisslehamn:
Sorry, my mistake, I was thinking of fast blow fuses for CD players, preamps and so on.
My system has zero, nada slow blow fuses.

A warning for everyone reading this thread:
Never replace a fast fuse with a slow blow fuse, there is a safety issue and your equipment will become unprotected against fast current surges.
In case of internal failure, a major melt-down will occur before the slo-blo fuse has a chance to open.
Slo-blo fuses should be used only when the manufacturer specifies them, e.g. some large power amps.

Further to my last comment on Furutech fuses, after futher investigation, I'd like to add that on certain systems (like my friend's) these fuse show the symptoms of some silver cables: slightly attenuated mid-bass and mid-low bass frequencies and slightly accentuated high mid and high frequencies, IMO anyways.

Thanks Spacer!: it might help if your friend move the speakers closer to the rear wall?

Thanks for your suggestion, but we've tried it all.

In my system however, in my amp. (Robertson 4010) I left a regular fuse for the power fuse and use Furutech for both left and right channels. Wonderful!!!

Note taht I've learned since my last post that Furutech fuses need at least 100 hours to be broken in. And from what I'm hearing, it is true.

Cheers!