Connect 3 High Current Amps to a Power Conditioner

I agree with Elizabeth that the sub. will be better plugged
direct to the wall.
Sounds like, knowledge is from first hand experience,
like myself.
Concise, practical advice from Elizabeth,I could not have
worded it any better.

I Love My Music!

What is the maximum current draw from each amp? Can the power conditioner handle it? can the wires back to your service panel handle all that current/power on one line? this is really not a good idea electrically. I know this is not what you may want to read/see, but you really would be better off electrically and sonically if you have dedicated lines with separate neutrals going back to your service panel. Small signal electronics such as pre-amp, tuner, cd player, turn table can be plugged into the conditioner and that conditioner has its own dedicated line back to the panel. Each amp should have a dedicated line back to panel. Ground loops are eliminated and electrically, your home's electrical system and wires are correct, and also important, sonically, this is much much better.

It really doesn't cost much for a qualified electrician to do this and you can do it yourself if you follow the proper procedures. Regardless of what kind of conditioner you use, the power/current draw on that one set of wires would be not a good idea. Dedicated lines are the way to go.

enjoy

I tried many power conditioners as well...none of them was an asset.

Thanks all for the wonderful and detailed feedback. I have a lot of fun homework ahead for trying out these different combos laid out. I also realise that the ideal is to have dedicated branch circuits for the amps. A little consolation is that I have a small-medium room with 8 ohm mains. So I wont be powering these guys all the way up and therefore am looking for more clarity in the system.

My 2 fronts speakers have power rating of 250watts (center 200watts) and my thought process is given that resistance and current are inversely proportional (P=IR), I guess I wont draw too much current given that I dont crank up the speakers too high. I am new to all this so what I am saying could be completely wrong.

Also the manual from the adcom does have the following:
It is not recommended that you connect the GFA-555ii into a branch circuit on which other appliances are used. Since conventional household branch circuits are often limited to 15 amps, when the gfa-555ii is used in conjunction with other appliances on the circuit, you may find the current available for the amp is insufficient; particularly in systems using very low-impedance, highly reactive loudspeakers

I will try out the sub plugged in to the outlet with the amps in the PC and report on the quality/impact. Also, as FYI, the PC I am using the panamax 5500 with AC regenerator.

I have a 5510 in use for the past 10 years or so. Great unit.

First, the 'regenerator' part of the logo refers to a small isolation transformer.
Follow the 'schematic' on the units top plate and connect all your low current and digital stuff to this.
I use another outlet for my TV.
In years past I experimented with the HiCurrent outlets and found them to stifle an amp. Even my moderately powerful Rotel RB-1070 of 130x2 driving fairly low sensitivity panels of 4ohms was lifeless. This combo never went above about 5 amps on the supplied meter. Plugging the amp straight into the wall helped a lot.
These days, my amp goes into its own circuit along with the sub. I have a PSAudio Soloist outlet which has some noise reduction / surge protection features.
The Rotel is long gone.