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Tube vs. Solid State-Basic Question

So here I am with my first all tube amp, the Manley Stingray II. While I wait for my Merlin TSM-XMr's to be delivered I've got the Stingray connected to a pair of Definitive Technology BP7004 towers in my theater room. I also ran them with a few other amps....testing them with a Cambridge 550A amp with 60 watts. I was able to play the speakers with the Cambridge well enough, but on tough passages at higher than medium volume the sound got congested and even distorted above that level.

So now I connect the new Stingray, switch to Triode-Mode (just 18 watts) and I get equal volume (or more) with beautiful sound, dynamics and imaging....and that's 18 watts in triode mode! The extra watts of the Cambridge did not appear to be of any use. What's up with that?

So....can some folks more educated on tubes explain to me....like I'm a two year old how the low powered Stingray plays so well with so little power?

Next up was to switch out of the triode mode and get the full 35-40 watts from the Manley which could drive the speakers very loud in my fairly large theater room. While I'm VERY happy with the Manley Stingray, I'm also a bit confused at the power the thing seems to have in spite of it's lower power. In fact my fat Denon receiver (110 watts) cannot keep up with the Stingray.

All comments welcome!

Bob
robbob
maxmad
182 posts
 
What you have with Manley is simply an good match with your speakers, cos this is the key. The rest is just the rest, so, enjoy!
Tube amps offer an wonderful option and that's the tube tonality, which you can change with tube rolling, while SS amps are pretty much done, unless your pre-amp or other pre-equipment also a tube based one that can have some influence on SS power or integrated amps.
For example my CD player output have 2x ECC82 valves and if I roll them it creates some tonality change at the end, such as better clarity, extension or bass. Each tube brand have their own sound sig, where Mullards are more warm with great mids, but can loose some detail. But TUNG SOLS are very rich, but not warm, having great extension and tighter bass. All these small things make the final picture bit differently and that's why tubes are very fun, however in your situation can be quite expensive as well, cos there are so many of them in Manley:)
There are some technical things involved to, but hoping that other members can tell you more about that part.
Other than that, congrats and enjoy!
czbbcl's avatar
czbbcl
1,752 posts
 
I was told by a highly respected tube / ss amp manufacturer that what you are hearing has to do with the higher plate voltages that tube amps run with ..... Simplified explaination for sure but it is basically in the design of tube versus ss amplifiers ....
artmaltman
769 posts
 
Tube watts do sound and feel much meatier than solid state watts. Match to your speaker is important of course.
Art
mmike84
309 posts
 
I have one additional comment to add in addition to what's been offered already. It is my understanding that when a tube amp clips, meaning the volume and complexity of a passage overwhelm the tube amps ability to adequately drive the sound, the clipping is not objectionable to the human ear. However when SS clips it is very objectionable. So even if the Manley were to be overwhelmed you may no be able to identify it.
elevick
2,638 posts
 
Massive power supplies help. How much does the Manley weight vs the Cambridge?

Also, when you look at specs, you will see dynamic headroom. Some amps can put out peaks anywhere from 0db to 3db to 6db or more. What that means is that some amps rated at 32 watts will sound lousy as soon as they try to push 33 watts, while other amps with let's say 3db of dynamic headroom can handle 64 watt peaks without any noticeable loss of sound quality. Many times you are only playing at 5 watts but may need 10 times that for peaks in the music.
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