Power Cable options for Levinson 300 series

I still own a 335 and it has the removable power cord that was replaced even before I plugged it into the wall the first time with a BMI Whale elite. Huge difference in soundstaging and low end reproduction. The even bigger difference sonically in my system was the addition of adding a 20 amp dedicated line for the amps. It opened up the dynamics and reduced the noise in the system even more. I would suggest trying that first?

The standard power connector in the aftermarket cable industry is the 15amp IEC connector. The 336, 33H, and the 33 cannot use a 15amp connector, because even the baby of the bunch, the 336, needs 17.71amps at 120v to reach full rated power with 8ohm loads. The 33H and 33 regenerate AC, which is an inefficient process, so they really need more current than a 15amp circuit is capable of.

There is a 20amp IEC connector available, but even that one isn't all that interesting for a 336, as 4ohm rated power requires 30.59amps at 120v. ML probably just threw in the towel and made a 10/3(?) power cord captive. For folks that use a true 20amp or 30amp circuit and outlet (which has a different power plug configuration) ML says in the owners manual to just change the plug on the captive power cord.

Frankly, I'm surprised even the 335 comes with a 15amp IEC port, because the 335 requires 20.93amps to reach rated power into 4ohm loads. I suppose ML felt they needed to support replaceable power cords for marketing reasons where it was possible.

The "right way" to power amps of this class is to run a dedicated 220v/30amp line to each amplifier, and have a dealer reconfigure the amps for that voltage.

To be perfectly honest, I've never understood amps with this much rated power. The 336 is delivering wattage equal to one horsepower per channel into 4ohm loads. Unless you have one heck of a set of speakers, with a large array of drivers with massive voice coils, this sort of power is just going to heat up speaker motors and cause poor performance. Given the potential power output, I'd recommend using at least 10ga speaker cables (8ga for longer runs) with high quality spade terminations on the amp side, and spades or locking banana plugs on the speaker side.

Thanks very much for all the input folks.......some excellent food for thought! I am going to have a closer look at my power situation for starters. I have been planning on doing this but a change of address was in my near future, so was holding off till I got in the new digs! I will definately be using some of this advice.

I'd bet ML knows a heck of alot more than us and decided the correct gauge will make a difference not some esoteric
material. The power just came down how many miles of god knows what, not to mention step down transformers and such.
Save your money and worries and spend more on the music.