Power Cable options for Levinson 300 series


I currently have the Levinson 33H's, and before them the 336. Both these amps have a Levinson power cable built right into the Chassis. Knowing how much a good power cable can improve a component, I am wondering what I could be missing in improved performance if I was able to put an after market cable on my 33H's. Does anyone know of any way to make this happen for the 300 series, as I believe they all, from the 331 to the 336, and including the 33H and 33's..........have built in power cables!
bullot
I'd bet ML knows a heck of alot more than us and decided the correct gauge will make a difference not some esoteric
material. The power just came down how many miles of god knows what, not to mention step down transformers and such.
Save your money and worries and spend more on the music.
Some of the numbers listed by other members are not entirely correct. 350/700/1400W rated Levinson 336 will pull in 3/6/12 amps MAXIMUM. Short dynamic passage will be handled by reserve currents in the capacitors. In normal listening level the amp will pull in 1 amp or less.

The dedicated AC circuit is still a good investment considering how affordable it is. I've installed 15A dedicated line a couple of years ago and I'm very happy with it.
Jylee, you are absolutely, positively incorrect. My power figures, every single one of them, came from the Mark Levinson owners manual for the 336. If you don't believe me, you can go to their web site and download the PDF for yourself.

In fact, even your 1 amp estimate for the 336 in normal listening is not correct. Levinson says at 120v the 336 will dissipate 3.35amps IDLING.
I must admit Levinson 336 consumes a lot of power as a class A/B design, and my numbers are somewhat underestimating. But their test figure is just that, driving test equipment given test signal. Unless the music is played in a large hall at extreme volume level using highly demanding speakers, I can't see how it could saturate standard 15A circuit.
To the OP, I'm sorry to have taken this thread down the 336 path when you were asking about the 33H. ML says the 33H dissipates 360W at idle, so the pair will sink a rather spectacular 720W at 120v just sitting there and waiting for a signal. You didn't mention your speakers, but if they are relatively inefficient ones, with impedance that falls below 4 ohms a lot, you're going to be drawing well over 1000w at the outlet regularly. The advice in this thread for dedicated 20amp circuits for each 33H is not only recommended, but nearly required.

As for swapping the power cord, I know there are lots of people that claim that power cords, or even outlets, make a difference in how your system will sound. I won't argue that here, but the 33H actually self-generates it's own AC current for the voltage gain stages. This capability is massive overkill, and goes beyond anything provided by an aftermarket power cord, and beyond what's provided by all but a few super-expensive power conditioners. You have what's, arguably, the best solution for power conditioning reasonably available.