bi amp imrpoving?

Sorry Al, I suppose I worded that poorly. I didn't mean that max volume levels are prima-facie beside the point -- I'm a big believer that realistic volume levels, and good sound at those levels, are required for convincing reproduction. (In fact I termed a phrase I call "absolute volume distortion" to describe listening at unrealistically loud or soft levels -- we all do it, but it's a form of playback distortion just the same). I meant that a relatively small potential increase in max volume capability (as you pointed out) is not the main reason for biamping, at least not for me. And lest my Fender amp analogy lead you to think I'm insensitive to uncompressed acoustic music's dynamic range, although I do listen to a lot of electric rock (a lot of it pretty lo-fi at that), and maintaining image independence within a group or massed context at high levels is important to me, in my view a critical test of whether additional power actually benefits a system's natural fidelity would not only be acoustic, but something like solo piano, or even solo acoustic guitar (a relatively quiet instrument at realistic volume settings, but one with which I am intimately familiar) and/or voice. If you screw these things up rather than making progress, then the ability to crank a little more in the bass is worthless to me. Besides which, now you've started making my argument for me! ;^)

We're not so different. You're preaching to the choir. I'm currently biamping with dual bridged Plinius SA-100's and a 1600W bass amp with separate active low and high pass filters. Don't ask how much that totals. Before that, I passive biamped Kappa8's from Mission 777's for the bass and Monarchy SE-100's for the mid/treble. Entirely different ages, characters, gain and feedback, despite both having the same wattage rating and being MOSFET. DIY'd a custom attenuator and got the best out of both. Going active could have been even better but that's a whole 'nother kettle of fish. That's just my own stuff. I've put together some wacky and extremely loud combinations for others.

Would I recommend biamping to the OP, after the way he phrased his post? NO. It was far too vague to indicate that he comprehends what he's getting into. Had he supplied some specifics or given any clue as to his competence, I would have been glad to assist. Maybe, I've just seen too many biamp threads.

Hi Ngjockey, in reference to your response, one of the reasons I go with very similar amplifiers (having basically the same gain) is that I prefer not to have to introduce outboard attenuators into the system, in addition to wanting as uniform sound as possible with seamless transitions between drivers. (I also use the same power cords and interconnects all around in addition to identical speaker cables.) I don't know from personal experience if this is as critical with an active outboard crossover (I do know that some have found it to be so), but as far as I can see I'm probably gonna stay 'passive' and never try going that route, for some of the reasons (among others) mentioned by various posters above. Not that I doubt the benefits of active multi-amping if done properly -- in fact, I've always found it somewhat surprising that there haven't been more high-end manufacturers designing complete integrated crossover/amp/speaker systems where each driver gets its own dedicated amplifier.

Would the use of a single amplifier with megawatt output, used with medium-efficiency speakers, negate any possible additional benefit of biamping?

Psag: Does the megawatt amp allow you to take more control over the system and optimize to your preference?