JADIS ORCHESTRA

if you don't know and most likely if dislodged it might need to be resoldered back into place. I would to be safe take it to a tech WHO KNOWS TUBE GEAR and has worked on them. Thats a fine piece of gear why not be safe then sorry.As far has the difference between the two models, I will leave that to others. The best and don't worry easy fix.

I own a JOR and love it, with the caveat that retubing power tubes requires setting bias voltages usings pots that are inside the unit and I definately rate that job as being not user friendly. The smaller signal tubes can be rolled to your preference and do not require bias adjustments. The unit sounds stellar on my Harmon Kardon Sixty's, but only average trying to push my Martin Logan SL3's. Give the Jadis an easy load and you should be quite happy with the sound. A qualified tech should be able to fix the cap without difficulty (and bias the output tubes) and there should be several in your area who might service tubed guitar amps for local proffesionals. Happy listening,

As there are two connections, my guess is that the cap didn't just fall out because of a bad solder joint (do you see the tabs on it?). You'll most likely need to purchase a replacement 470 uF cap, and have it soldered in, while removing the remnants of the one you described. There are two sets of them, each with two 470 uF caps, bypassed with 150 kOhm resistors that make up the filtering for the B+ voltage.

The Orchestra and Orchestra Reference are the same circuit. The JOR has more upscale cosmetics (faceplate/knobs) and binding posts, the potted transformers, and can run larger (6550, KT88, and KT90) tubes, though I feel they sound best with EL34 variants.

As McFarland mentioned, it's a darned good amp. Though the lowest on the Jadis totem pole, with a friendly loudspeaker, it'll meet the measure of the better products from most companies. I sold my first to a good friend here with a truly upscale main system for use in his office system. I was real gunshy about the sale, as he was obviously blessed (or cursed) with a great ear/taste, and had gone through many products in his search. He was immediately wowed by the JOR. So much so that within a short time, he sold it and moved up to a DA88S. That's as strong a statement about a product as one can make. I ended up missing mine so much that even after buying a DA30 and DA60, I wound up getting another JOR.

Thanks to you all,
Just the solder joint I think.The two tabs are still there. I took the amp to a retired person,he was recommended to me by a hi fi exchange shop. He thinks it was a cost cutting measure and poor design that led to the the cap being dislodged. Which tubes would you recommend I run on this amp? I was planning on running KT88 to get a little more bass and drive my old ProAc super towers.I have 6CA7 and 2A7EH?? I think.Should I upgrade the binding post or anything else? I am not worried about the cosmetics just the sonics. Thanks to you all.

I am the good friend of Trelja, alluded to. He is correct that I was wowed by the sound, although he is too modest to say that he was technically proficient enough to manually bias it, somethinhg I was uncomfortable doing. So, unless you are comfortable in the innards of a French design, get your consultant to bias the amp. On Joe's recommendation, I tried and liked best JJ Tesla Blue L34 (EL 34) tubes, easily and inexpensively obtained in matched pairs from Eurotubes.com(great service and hardy, perfectly matched tubes. A great little amp with a very magical midrange with EL 34s. Just the tough biasing process a single negative, best done by a Pro. But I thank Trelja for selling mne the JOR or I would have missed out on a truly unique house sound that is rarely captured by other marques.........