Need advice: Biamping vs. dual bridged monos

Although I have no experience with the CA-100's, the Maggies are not that difficult a load, despite their power appetite and low impedance.

Tried to do some research on the CA-100's and found mixed results for bridging. By the specs, they should be capable and they are rated for bridged operation into 4 ohms. For best results, use XLR interconnects if possible because the amp becomes differentially balanced when bridged.

This assumes that they are actually bridged as opposed to being "parallelled", which is not always a safe assumption.

Wouldn't hurt to try.

biamp power needs are based on crossover frequency.
The 50:50 point is (around) 350hz. So, if the crossover is higher, the bass amp will run out of steam first...if the crossover is lower, the treble amp will have problems at the highest levels.

You could, and are probablly thinking to do a lo/ mid-hi split which would be just fine.

I have compared this several times with different amps, and universally I have preferred the Mono configuration with bi-wiring to running two Stereo amps.

I run two Pathos Classic One MkIII integrateds (reviewed) and always run them Mono when not using them with an active x-over (a special configuration which requires more channels of amplification, thus running them in stereo). Mono is almost always perceptually more pleasing due to the improved macrodynamics, often without harm to the definition and in some cases a nice improvement of definition.

I also have two Cambridge Audio Azur 840W amps, which are also configurable as stereo, dual mono or single mono. When using them in single mono mode the increase in dynamics and expansiveness of soundstage is considerable. Again, I always biwire to take full advantage of the amp/speaker interface.

Watch your cabling very carefully; pay especially close attention to the power cords used with the amps, as they have a huge impact on the amps' sound. In any system I establish the change of the two power cords on the Monos results in a big shift in the system's sound. Not only does conductor material (i.e. silver coated copper vs. solid copper) but total gauge have an influence upon the results.

are your speakers set up whereby you can biamp them easily? In other words, does the input connectors have two separate connectors for high and low that are jumpered? If yes, then disconnect the connectors and simply connect the amps accordingly. one 2-channel amp for the high input of each speaker and the other 2-channel amp for the low input of each speaker. This assumes that you will be using the internal passive crossovers in your speakers. If your speakers do not have the twin connectors as I mentioned previously, then biamping is not possible. But, most speakers are designed and constructed being capable of biamping this way. You will immediately notice better clarity. The amps will not have to work as hard driving high, mid bass and low end signals.

enjoy

Thanks to everyone for your advice!

To answer Minorl's question: Yes, my speakers are set up for bi-amping. Each speaker has a pair of treble inputs and a pair of bass inputs. The speakers also come with a simple crossover box that is connected directly to these treble and bass inputs on the back of the speaker. Then, the user simply connects the speaker cable to the two inputs on the crossover box. But when bi-amping, I guess that I have to set this manufacturer's crossover aside and get a good active crossover. ...But I really don't know. I have no experience with crossovers, bi-amping, bi-wiring, etc. This is all new to me. That's why I need guidance. : )