Is my Pass amp overheating?


The amp is an XA30.5.

Yesterday I was doing some tinkering and the amp was turned off for a couple hours (unusual for me). When I was done, I sat down to listen while the amp was still cold. To my surprise, it sounded BETTER than I'd ever heard it.

The amp is Class A, so according to conventional wisdom, it needs to warm up before sounding its best. Yet it definitely sounded better BEFORE it warmed up. So I'm wondering if the amp is overheating. To test this, I took the lid off the amp. Three things happened:

1. At idle, the bias needle moved from 11 o'clock to 1 o'clock (unprecedented).

2. The cooling fins became much HOTTER (not cooler, as I would have expected).

3. The sound quality of the amp remained "improved" even after several hours.

Can someone please explain what's going on?

Thanks,
Bryon

P.S. The amp is in a closet. But I don't think that's the problem, for the following reasons: The amp is on the top shelf of an equipment rack, so there is two feet of open air above it. There is a large fan in the ceiling of the closet that sucks air and sends it through a duct to the outside of the house. So the closet stays very close to the temperature of the rest of the house. Also, I can reproduce all the effects described above with the closet door open.
bryoncunningham
Hi Csontos - I just read your thread on DC offset and bias. Very interesting.
You just hit the nail on the head Bryon.
Are you saying that there's a way to manually adjust the bias on my XA30.5? According to Pass, the autobias on the amp is regulated by internal chassis temperature, which is consistent with my findings comparing the stock lid, the mesh lid, and no lid. In light of the amp's autobias, is it unlikely that the amp also has adjustment pots to manually set bias?

Bryon
I'm not familiar with your particular amp. What I don't understand is why manufacturers don't incorporate user adjustable bias controls in ss amps the way they do with tubes. It's especially relevant in your case where the tolerance in the auto-bias prevents the amp from ever achieving pin-point accuracy. You've just verified where the ultimate potential of your amp lives, as with any ss amp. At least with a fixed bias you can fiddle with it till you find it, not so with yours. If you could, this thing would knock your socks off!
As an after thought, I wonder what Nelson would have to say about this whole thing. You should ask him your self. He has his own dedicated site on DIY.com. It would be a very enlightening experience to say the least. I'd love to be a fly on the wall observing how he tweaks his personal gear.
I talked with Kent at Pass Labs about the amp's autobias. He was the one who confirmed that removing the lid increases the amp's bias because it lowers the internal temperature in the chassis. That triggers the amp to turn up the bias until it reaches the internal temperature it expects. I didn't ask him whether the amp has adjustment pots, but from his other comments, I would say it probably doesn't.

Kent did discourage me from modifying the amp in any way, because of the risk of electrocution. I suppose it's good practice for a manufacturer to say that. I didn't fully heed his words of caution, but I don't think my custom lid is a big risk.

As far as asking Nelson about this over at DIY.com, I'm a little reluctant. Although he has a reputation for being a really nice guy, I get the impression from his posts that he doesn't appreciate people tampering with his amps, probably because "it ain't broke, so don't fix it."

But maybe I can ask him some general questions about how he determines the optimal bias level for his amps. From what I learned from Kent, turning up the amp's bias isn't a danger to the amp itself, because its parts are all spec'd to operate under significantly higher temperatures than the factory bias setting generates. Because of that, he also didn't seem concerned that turning the bias up would shorten the lifespan of the amp.

Bryon