Jadis OR bias value for Mullard RL34 and KT88 help

Doctor, did you find the TungSol 12AX7 superior to the Shuguang 12AX7B? If so, that's quite a statement.

The Tung Sols are competent tubes that do their job in a somewhat understated manner in my experience, they have very good tonal balance. I would be hard pressed to say they are better than the Shuguangs. The Shuguangs have much better treble extension and are indeed cleaner than the Tung Sols now than you have got me comparing the tubes.
I was thinking that his choice for 12AX7 was a good one that really shouldn't have any negative impact on the overall sonics he is looking for.
Joe what would you say provide the most bass in that family of tubes? I remember when we were trying to buy 5751s and you telling me that the Grey Plates, while not your ultimate choice, had "thunderous bass". I found your description to be spot on, and never forgot it.

Doctor, I would say you have more knowledge in terms of the 12AX7 and 5751 than I.

While I do feel the Sylvania 5751 Grey Plates have a bit more thunder down under, as you had also thoroughly evaluated the GE 5 Star and RCA variants, your insight and overall perspective surely betters mine.

Regarding the Shuguangs, I find they do not lack in the low end. Previous to finding them, there was no production 12AX7 that I felt held up against the tubes of yore. But outside of the JOR, where the lower gain potentially becomes an issue, I'll still take the 5751.

Care to provide an update on how break in left things, Mattzack2? How do you find the Mullard EL34 in comparison to your Gold Lion KT88?

They are still breaking in I believe. They did seem to start filling the room nicely a few days ago ( about 100 hrs ago), but they have paused short of the kt88's at this point. I have tried swapping out the TungSol with Mazda 12ax7s's and EH12ax7's and the Mullards seem to still be shy of the holographic richness I am looking for.

I am going to continue burning them in for a while more. But I am considering playing with the bias a little. I have it at 110mv now and was thinking of going to the recommended extremes of 90 and 120mv. What do you think of this plan?

If you've reached the 100 hour mark, I think you're now hearing what the tubes are going to do.

"I am considering playing with the bias a little. I have it at 110mv now and was thinking of going to the recommended extremes of 90 and 120mv. What do you think of this plan?"

Well, I've been resisting saying this since the beginning of the thread, as I've seen the pocket protected high-end audio safety police go nuts in a "we're going to DIE!!!" scream whenever anyone suggests going outside of the manufacturer's recommendation. But I have experimented with this, and I have discovered that as with most tube amplifiers if you are interested in sonics, you want to bias the tubes hot (if you are bent on staying within the lines, think 120mV, not 90mV). This was demonstrated most starkly to me by an older gentleman who really knows tube amps, and biases his amplifier to the point where the plates of the tubes begin to glow, then (maybe) backs off a hair. The increase in everything - be it imaging, low end, warmth, and overall musicality is obvious. Of course, tube life suffers. Perhaps, dramatically. It's no concern to him, as he's not on the audiophile train, and uses a tube that no one has interest in, so he would have enough for his grandchildren that he acquired for nothing. But I don't want to suggest anyone try that as standard operating procedure.

Anyway, I can shoot an e-mail off to my friend at Jadis to find out if their novel (pioneered by the Quad II) transformer connection plays any role, or if we can simply figure plate current straightaway from the 5.62 Ohm bias resistor before giving you any hard and fast recommendations in terms of numbers.