Explain Class D amps to "non audiophile friends"

"Realremo, we are seriously trying to explain but I can see that making jokes is more important to you and Jeffatus (who finds it amusing). I won't make this mistake again."

Hold on a second, I find the posts extremely helpful, which is why I always make sure to thank everyone for their posts. You have to understand though, what may be easy for you guys to understand would take a layman a while to pick up. It seemed obvious to me that Realmro was poking fun at himself, which is exactly how I felt (about myself, that is). I mean, here I was trying hard to take all this in and the exploding brain post came up...I seriously couldnt stop laughing.

I wouldn't say I feel stupind asking these questions, but I certainly don't feel like the smartest guy on the web. Either way, you guys are way ahead of me and your help is greatly appreciated.

If I may venture a comment or two; This technology is prevalent in the automotive world. It is used to control the output of the fuel injectors and fuel pumps. I'm guessing that it also is used in the audio amps in many automobiles for the weight and energy savings it provides. I'm sure better quality computer speaker amps use Class D as well and they don't sound bad for what they are. All that being said, and I'm sure that I am not alone in saying this, I'm just not ready to accept Class D amplification as my final output stage in my HiFi. Maybe some of it is stubborness on my part, although I enjoy my CDs but I still like vinyl better. What I have seen in Class D designs is circuit board amps with lots of electrolytic capacitors. This goes against my conventional hifi wisdom of discrete components, isolation from power supplies and roll film capacitors/wire wound resistors in the music signal path. Am I wrong about that?

Tony,

If you are not accepting due to a pre-conception about what a good amplifier looks like, or even how it works, then I might venture to say you are on the wrong path.

IF you have heard a Class D amp and are not convinced, then I would say your conclusions at this time are justifiable based on your personal needs and preferences. If you hear several over time and still are not a fan, then you have done due diligence in making a valid determination.

My Wyred 4 Sound ST-1000 is excellent
It drives the B&W Nautilus 802S speakers to excellent sound and control of the speakers

W4S makes modifications to the stock B&O ICE modules, they also have their own input circuit