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Cones under a suspended table?

One of my tables is an AR ES-1, which I've made many upgrades to over the years. It works well, and is relatively free of influence from footfalls, but I'm looking to optimize the coupling between the table and the custom shelf it sits on (I made it from 1-1/2" of HDF, under which is a layer of Sorbothance, and under that a sheet of granite). I've read on the one hand that tables like this work best with their stock feet (little rubber feet), but I'm not sure I believe these can provide the best transfer of unwanted energy from the TT into the shelf.

Anyone have experience in this area? I was thinking of trying Black Diamond cones or something like that in that sort of price range. I've been told Stillpoints are supposed to be "right" for suspended tables, but they're a little too pricey - given the age and relative value of the table. Looking for a cost-effective improvement.

Other things I've considered are Audio Prism Iso-Bearings or a set of spikes (generic) I already have resting in Isoclean Tip-Toe bases. I'll repeat that the TT is pretty well isolated from external vibrations; I'm looking for a way to drain unwanted energy from the table into the platform in the hopes of improving clarity and control.
tonyptony
jedinite24's avatar
jedinite24
1,503 posts
 
Hi Syntax

I thought for Direct Drive turntables softer isolation was to be used and for suspended turntables cones, blocks more rigid isolation was to be used. I'm stumped yet again.
mrvordo's avatar
mrvordo
151 posts
 
A bicycle tube is basically what the Airhead is, so I'm doing that with the cones replacing the stock feet.
mrvordo's avatar
mrvordo
151 posts
 
I just changed the BDR Cones under my Oracle to mk3, and put those on mk4 Pucks. HUGH difference. Much better balance now with wider sound stage, and more clarity overall. I have no idea why these things work, but they sure do. It's also amazing how mixing mk3 and mk4 Cones and Pucks can help give a better over all balance than just using one version. They all look alike except for the 3 or 4 engraved on them, but there definitely is something different about them.
tonyptony OP
617 posts
 
I decided to try Mk4 cones first since the timing worked (they showed up for sale at the right time :-) ). I actually set them up with the pointy end up, set into the little depressions where the feet are. I think they work pretty well. Going to live with the table set up this way for a bit.
mrvordo's avatar
mrvordo
151 posts
 
Good deal Tonyptony. I sort of assume that you did that because the cones, if used with the points down would not give clearance from the original feet. Correct? You may want to try removing the original feet and replacing them with the cones. If you don't already have them, you can get screw post for the cones that will fit the screw holes in the plinth of the table. I would think that that would give you the most improvement. If you get some mk3 cones, try mixing one or two with the mk4 cones. This seems to bring out the best of both for me.

Good listening,
Mike
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