Krell 700cx, and Tara cobalt A/C power cord.


I have used many times in the past after market power cords with a Krell amp and result with a sound that was worse than the stock cord from Krell!, I am getting ready to send A Krell 700cx back to Krell to be renewed for me to last!, The amp is only 8 years old!, It came hard wired with a snake of a stock power cord!, My question is will a retail $5,000.00 Taralabs cobalt A/C power cord sound awsome with this amp?, My friend Jmcgrogan2 is telling me to get Krell to put an IEC input on the amp so I can use an after market power cord, I have extensive experience with Taralabs cables and know them very well!, However,I have never used a cobalt on a Krell 700 cx!, Will this work?, who has done this?, what was the sound out come?, Thankyou!
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Audiolabrynth, Have you looked into the Coconut Audio Power Cords? The manufacturer claims they are the best in the world.
@ Isochronism, Hi, No, I have not looked into Coconut power cords, However, It may not be the very best, I just bought a Taralabs cobalt with oyaide plugs back on june 28th to go on my source, it is a 20 amp power cord, I do believe there is no better power cord from the $9,000.00 class on down, my opinion only, what do I know, right!,LOL!, I have not even used the cobalt power cord yet untill I get my amp back from Krell.,, cheers.
My understanding is that the 10 gauge wire will handle the 30a. As for the outlet and cord, unless the amp is drawing 30a, which it doesn't, then no harm. Now if the amp decides to short out, there could be an issue. That's why what I'm doing is not up to code. With normal operation, there is no heat at the outlet or plug, so all is well.
I forgot to mention that outlets and cords are labeled according to the type of slot or plug, not necessarily what amperage they can handle. A true 30 amp outlet will have a different slot pattern and require a different plug on the cord. This is to stop someone from plugging in a lamp or something in a 30 amp outlet. 30 amp outlets generally will be wired for 220 volts and that would do all the things that the electrical people are telling you. But what really decides how much current they can handle is the effective gauge of wire. I would say that the heavier made Wattgate, and probable the one you are looking at, will handle more than 20 amps due to the heavier construction compared to a regular household outlet. Same with the power cord. If the effective gauge of the cord is 10 or more, then it should handle the current even into a dead short. The audiophile cords have heavier plugs and should be able to handle 30 amps for a little while, and they only need to be able to hang in there long enough to throw the breaker. Something that won't happen unless you have a dead short at the amp.
At least that's my understanding, and my outlet, plug, and amp are all cool and fine. No sign of melting.
@ Mrvordo, Hi, Man, I was really hopeing you got back to me, Thankyou for doing so, your theory is exactly what I already believed!, I also agree with your whole post!, I was believing thats exactly why the electrical stores were saying what they said, LOL!, they said the same thing you did!, Krell told me to use a 25 to 30 amp breaker, The electrical supply houses said It would not work, I knew it would!, They said it was not code to, and I would be taking a chance on damageing my amp, and a possible fire could happen, Krell did say the 700 cx would run smoother and cooler!, can you hear a difference in sound with the 30 amp breaker alone??, thats one question I would like to know, Thankyou, cheers to you!