room design help


I give up, im no longer going to keep trying to have my sitting room as a hi fi room, the plan is to build a wooden garden hi fi room, im a carpenter so i should be able to do it myself, also i have plenty of space.
Now for my request, could anyone help with
ideal dimensions
any links to similar projects
hints for ceiling, floor and wall treatments
willie
willsandbills
hints for ceiling, floor and wall treatments - Auralex.com.

Also - search the archives. There's lots on this subject.
Look at "The Complete Guide to High-end Audio" by Robert Harley. This book has a simplified formula to the science of acoustics. A far superior source is "Sound Studio Construction on a Budget" by F. Alton Everest. This is a terrific source to learn how acoustics work and how our systems work with the room to produce what we here.

Arthur has good intentions with the Golden Ratio, but it has nothing to do with acoustics or audio. I understand there are products being sold using the "Golden Ratio" as the science behind it. This is hype, the "Golden Ratio" is a description of how our body's relate to scale and space. Our body is the "golden Ratio" (Height to width) and in architectural design it tends to be most pleasing. That however has nothing to do with wire or acoustics. Sorry.

Lastly if you do not actually want to learn, find "Rives" on Audiogon. He designs acoustic space for a living and has a huge depth of knowledge.

Jade
I second Andy's comments....make sure the room dimensions are not a multiple of the ceiling height.

Wooden frame is good as it will leak the bass out ...producing less reverberation or room modes. If you are going to such trouble you may also consider soffit mouting the speakers, as I have done. It means you need to renovate when (if) you change speakers, however, in theory and in practice this gives the most accurate sound by removing all the comb filtering that you get from bass reflections off the rear wall. An examination of facilities at most high end professional studios will show you that more than 50% use soffit mounted speakers for mains....so don't simply take my word for it.

Also check out Ethan Winner's website on how you might build walls that absorb LF energy....the rear wall behind your listening position and the ceilings usually require the most absorption treatments.

Good luck. Projects can be fun and perhaps you can share photos of your progress (I did)
Ethan's site, realtraps.com, is a great place to start reading. Also audiocircle.com has an acoustics circle. This is the most important part of your systems sound next to your speakers. Therefore it will have quite an effect.

You may even want to buy some panels from Ethan, his prices are very good btw. This way you can get some expert advice on your room.

One mistake you want to avoid is to build a room which the dimensions are multiples of one another. I noticed an above poster has a 20'x30' room with a 15' ceiling. This will amplify the peaks and dips in a room. It's pure physics. Being as you have the option on dimensions make sure you don't have the same or a multiple of a dimension, I said that twice on purpose as it's extremely important.

When it comes to the ideal amount of treatment that can be a grey area. In my room I went LEDE (live end dead end) with bass traps in each corner. This has worked out incredibly well. I've had a few speakers in this room besides my Vmps Rm 40's and they all sound better in here. Also it's quiet which helps. Many people think that LEDE is not the way to go and may over damp your room. If it hurt anything I don't know what it is as my dynamics are killer good, I mean the dynamics literally startle you. Imaging is so good I've had newbies ask a few times "where's the sound coming from?".

In the end getting what's considered good acoustics will help the sound of your system and allow it to perform as it should. Regarding room dimensions, did I say to make SURE you don't use the same dimension or a multiple of it?

Another thing I did in my basement room had been to isolate the sound substantially. The living room is directly above my listening room and I like to listen loudly at times. I put in a ceiling starting with soundboard(a layer of drywall I guess is as good), then resilient channel installed asymmetrically, then drywall and then acoustic tiles.

There is drywall that's far better than standard rock and is designed for sound isolation. I just read about it and don't know it's cost. If you're a carpenter then you may already be familiar with resilient channel. There are as good or better methods than what I used available. The result however works great. Only a bit of bass is heard in the living room directly above me.

Best wishes to you for your new room. I love having a dedicated listening room.