bypassing a crossover in a two-way


i am not a tech person so forgive any ignorance. i want to bypass the crossover in a simple and cheap two way, because the main driver is the same one used in the manufacturer's crossoverless design.

the manufacturer gave me the following instructions: "A 0.68uf cap in series with the tweeter + lead is all you need,, - to the - binding post." I'm not sure what this means. looking into the speaker i can see the black and red wires leave the speaker leads and inter the crossover network. leaving the crossover are two sets of black and white wires, one set going to the leads on the woofer, the other connected to the single wire from the tweeter.

am i to cut the speaker wire before it reaches the crossover and then insert the cap? if so, how, specifically, do i these three connections to a single cap (1. the input from the speaker leads, 2. the output to the woofer, and 3. the output to the tweeter)? i am not able to visualize his statement in relation to what i've described as the inside the speaker cabinet. i've looked elsewhere on the web but to no avail. i realize it is simple but just don't have the background.

any help would be very much appreciated.
thomp9015
Good question Gregm. I think .68uF is a 500Hz cross to the tweeter. 11.00uF is about 3000Hz and where you want to be. I did this real quick, anyone agree.....Greg?
240zracer, i'll email the manufacturer with your info and see what he says...the main driver should be flat to 10,000 Hz ...thanks!
More in the neighbourhood 30kHz if the tweet is 8ohm -- it's 0,68 microfarad... Cheers
Why, Why, Why??? The manufacturer gave you a crossover because, above the XO frequency the woofer doesn't work as well as the tweeter. Cone drivers typically have lumpy frequency response in a range before they roll off, and you really want to turn them off before that happens.
eldartford

it is the same single driver used in the (subsequent)crossoverless design, it is full range to 10kh and the crossover was removed in the later model so it could be directly wired, though the SUPER tweeter was retained with a capacitor. the manufacturer didn't sedm to think it was any big deal, as a way to upgrade to the newer model.