STAX input voltage question

Glad to help or bring you deeper into the headphone madness. I've got it pretty bad with more the 40 electrostatic headphones, some 7 amps and 20+ adapters.

I'll see you in the Stax thread on head-fi

Thanks much Spritzer. I hope I figured a way to better articulate my question.
I have two STAX SRM-1 Mk2 units. One is 100V for Japan and the other 117V for USA. The serial numbers are surprisingly close and the voltage selectors themselves look identical (but are wired slightly differently). The 100V unit has no jack in the voltage selector on the back. The 117V unit has the voltage selector jack in place and pointing to 117V. The 117V unit will not power up without the jack in place. I don't like the idea of trying to power up the 110V unit with the other jack inserted in it pointing to 117V. When I look inside, I see that there is a slight difference in the color coded wiring schemes (btw: these 2 units are amazingly close in serial number). Can the 110V unit be wired to the same color coding scheme as the 117V unit with expectations of it working (at 117V assuming that I find and insert another jack)? Or, are their other internal differences?
Another idea would be to permanently wire it for 117V without having to find another jack (IF there are no other internal differences)?
Can you tell that I am not a 'techi'?
My wife has a technical question for you also: "Will I get SHOCKED?" lol
Thanks much!

What the voltage selector plug does is rearrange the primaries of the transformers so they are reflect the input voltage. It's hard to tell if Stax changed the transformer or if the bypassed the selector switch or if it was some after market mod. The best way would be check if the backside of the socket is wired the same i.e. the same wire from the transformer goes to the same pin on the socket on both units and if there are the same internal connections on the back of the socket. Pictures would be great of both units.

Regarding the shocking part, yes it is a definite possibility but the fuse will protect you. When I'm testing "uncertain" amp I stand well away and turn them on with a switch on an extension cord.

Spritzer, Both transormers and wires look identical. But the wires leading to the back of the selector switch sockets are wired differently (2 wires go to different pins, as I recall). This is where I was asking if wiring the 110V unit the same as the 117V unit would convert it to 117V.
I can take some photos but will have to borrow the right camera to do it.
btw: My ultimate goal is to find as perfect a tube STAX as I can afford. If you have anything in your arsenal that you might like to sell, let me know thru email. Thanks much again.

Since the voltage selector plug is lost, a former owner may have bypassed it since the amp will not receive any power if it isn't there. There are 4 primaries if I remember it correctly, two 20v and two 100v, but I could be wrong.

I don't have any of my tube amps up for sale any time soon since two of them have only been with me for a week. I can recommend the best amp for the job though based on the headphones you will be using. Any one of the Lambdas needs a pretty basic amp compared to the SR-007 Omega II. I use a EL34 based Blue Hawaii as my main amp and it is larger then many power amps but still isn't powerful enough for the Omegas so I'm working on a 845 based design.